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Photo journey of how to build a grout formicarium


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#21 Offline dspdrew - Posted February 21 2014 - 7:33 AM

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Maybe I got the wrong kind

Welcome to the forum. :)

 

You might want to check ceramic supply stores and look for the fire brick used in kilns. These are a little different than what Crystal uses. There are different hardnesses, so the one you want is K-23. Here's a link to an example of these.

 

http://www.axner.com...firebricks.aspx



#22 Offline Crystals - Posted March 29 2014 - 2:43 PM

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I made a thread on how to build a formicarium out of Firebrick:

http://forum.formicu...rney/#entry1650

 

I also made a thread on how to build a formicarium out of a bead storage container:

http://forum.formicu...iner/#entry5363


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#23 Offline Crystals - Posted October 31 2014 - 5:48 PM

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Grout Mixture Experiment

 

I mixed 5 tablespoons of unsanded grout with various additives in small disposable plastic cups and let them dry for a week. 

I recorded how badly it cracked after one week of drying and how absorptive it was.

 

I experimented with:

  • Uncrushed perlite  (called Regular Perlite below)
  • Perlite lightly crushed with a rolling pin  (called Perlite Powder below)
  • Perlite finely ground in a coffee grinder  (called Ground Perlite below)
  • Sand (regular sand meant for kid's sandboxes)

Pure un-sanded grout:                              No cracks     Absorbed extremely slowly and moisture did not seem to spread far

1/6 Perlite Powder + 1/6 Regular Perlite:  No cracks     Absorbed at an average rate

1/6 sand + 1/6 Regular Perlite :                No cracks     Absorbed at an average rate

1/6 sand + Perlite Powder:                        Cracked       Absorbed at an average rate

1/4 Regular Perlite:                                   No cracks     Absorbed at an average rate

1/3 Regular Perlite:                                   Cracked       Absorbed quickly

1/4 Perlite Powder:                                    Slight crack  Absorbed at an average rate

1/3 Perlite Powder:                                    Slight crack  Absorbed at an average rate

1/2 Sand:                                                  Cracked        Absorbed at an average rate

1/3 Sand:                                                  No cracks      Absorbed at an average rate

1/4 Sand:                                                  No cracks      Absorbed slowly and somewhat unevenly

1/3 Sand + 1/6 Regular Perlite:                 Slight crack   Absorbed at an average rate

1/3 Sand + 1/6 Perlite Powder:                 Cracked        Absorbed at an average rate

 

Definition for cracks:

No cracks = no cracks of any kind.

Slight crack = a tiny hairline crack that was barely visible.

Cracked = a crack that went all the way through, and an ant might be able to get a good enough grip to chew on it.  The crack was quite obvious.

 

The grout mixture was only about 5mm thick, so that may account for some of the cracks.  If it was thicker some of the cracks may have not occurred.

 

Perlite Powder seems to lead to a higher cracking possibility.

 

Sand settles quite quickly, which may affect the absorbancy on the reverse side.  I left these in the cups and did not remove them when testing the absorbancy.


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#24 Offline dspdrew - Posted October 31 2014 - 5:59 PM

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Interesting experiment.



#25 Offline Foogoo - Posted April 21 2015 - 8:50 PM

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Does anyone have any experience making vertical nests similar to these?

b57c64_3548a3f138c6493fa3230561f29bb345.

I would buy them from Antsnational if shipping wasn't $22! Having never made my own formicariums yet, would it just be coat the container with oil, place clay tunnel molds, pour hydrostone? I'm thinking if it would slide out after hardening with the clay there. I'd like to experiment with a few as alternatives to test tubes for founding.


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Camponotus vicinus, Crematogaster 1, Crematogaster 2, Formica francoeuri, *, *, Myrmecocystus testaceus, Novomessor cockerelli, Pheidole hyatti, Pogonomyrmex californicus, Pogonomyrmex rugosus, Solenopsis invicta


#26 Offline Gregory2455 - Posted April 21 2015 - 11:00 PM

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Does anyone have any experience making vertical nests similar to these?

 

I would buy them from Antsnational if shipping wasn't $22! Having never made my own formicariums yet, would it just be coat the container with oil, place clay tunnel molds, pour hydrostone? I'm thinking if it would slide out after hardening with the clay there. I'd like to experiment with a few as alternatives to test tubes for founding.

I actually also really want to know how to make vertical nests like those...


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#27 Offline Trailandstreet - Posted April 22 2015 - 2:46 AM

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If you have a form, that's conical, it is no problem. A little bit of oil (edible oil of course) can be helpful. Pur the plaster in it ans if it is nearly hardened, you can make the chambers with a drill.


:hi: Franz

if you find any mistakes, it's my autocorrection. it doesn't speak english.


#28 Offline Wamdar - Posted April 22 2015 - 4:15 AM

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What about trying a 3d printed version? 



#29 Offline dspdrew - Posted April 22 2015 - 5:36 AM

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Good luck getting your clay tunnels to stick to the sides after oiling it up. If you try this with Hydrostone, you won't be getting it out no matter how slick it is.



#30 Offline Crystals - Posted April 22 2015 - 6:06 AM

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I found with containers like that, you need one just for pouring the material.

 

Take one of those containers and cut it completely in half from top to bottom.  Otherwise you will not get the grout out.

You can make your clay tunnels, paint on olive oil, put the two halves together and use an elastic band or twist tie to keep them together.

Pour in mixture.

 

Once it is dry, remove twist tie, and carefully pry apart.  Heating it up beneath a blow drier makes oil based clay softer and it comes off easier.

 

Paint it if you want, and put it in one of the new containers.

 

Looks like he may have peat or coconut under the materal to help keep humidity more stable.


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#31 Offline Foogoo - Posted April 22 2015 - 6:59 AM

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Good luck getting your clay tunnels to stick to the sides after oiling it up. If you try this with Hydrostone, you won't be getting it out no matter how slick it is.

Challenge accepted. There's other place that sell something similar for cheaper, but none with hydrostone.


Camponotus vicinus, Crematogaster 1, Crematogaster 2, Formica francoeuri, *, *, Myrmecocystus testaceus, Novomessor cockerelli, Pheidole hyatti, Pogonomyrmex californicus, Pogonomyrmex rugosus, Solenopsis invicta


#32 Offline Crystals - Posted April 22 2015 - 7:04 AM

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Take pictures as you do it, and create a picture how-to like I did.  :D

 

I have two picture how-to's in the works.


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#33 Offline Foogoo - Posted April 22 2015 - 7:22 AM

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Take pictures as you do it, and create a picture how-to like I did.  :D

 

I have two picture how-to's in the works.

 

Definitely, I've already got some ideas to try and prove dspdrew wrong  :P . Any container ideas? I'd like to use a glass cylinder between 1"-4" in diameter or so but can't think of where I can find something like that.

 

Edit: Or acrylic/polycarbonate. Just not a huge fan of the cloudy tupperware material.


Edited by Foogoo, April 22 2015 - 7:25 AM.

Camponotus vicinus, Crematogaster 1, Crematogaster 2, Formica francoeuri, *, *, Myrmecocystus testaceus, Novomessor cockerelli, Pheidole hyatti, Pogonomyrmex californicus, Pogonomyrmex rugosus, Solenopsis invicta


#34 Offline dspdrew - Posted April 22 2015 - 7:38 AM

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Good luck getting your clay tunnels to stick to the sides after oiling it up. If you try this with Hydrostone, you won't be getting it out no matter how slick it is.

Challenge accepted. There's other place that sell something similar for cheaper, but none with hydrostone.

 

 

The problem with Hydrostone is it expands so much, that not only will it be wedged in so tight you won't be able to get it out, if the container isn't strong enough, it'll actually break.



#35 Offline Pulliamj - Posted April 22 2015 - 7:44 AM

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Search glass tubing, but it is very expensive. I've seen some 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 straight plastic tube like we use except much bigger it was at Home Depot.

#36 Offline Crystals - Posted April 22 2015 - 7:53 AM

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Clear retail tubes meant for display may work.  Some come in glass, others in plastic.  Here is one such source, but they only go up to 3" wide.

Some food storage containers may work.  There are some types that are clear.  Check a dollar store for ideas.

 

I once found a really nice container in the bathroom section, meant for holding cotton balls for something.


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#37 Offline Foogoo - Posted April 22 2015 - 8:10 AM

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Thanks, I'll check those sources out. I think this calls for a cruise down the aisles of 99 Cent Store. Those Uline tubes actually look perfect! Glass would be better for clarity, but then there's issues of breakage, cutting, caps, etc. Although a large test tube might work. My local coffee shop had 1" dia tubes used to display tea. They said they weren't for sale.  :(

 

The problem with Hydrostone is it expands so much, that not only will it be wedged in so tight you won't be able to get it out, if the container isn't strong enough, it'll actually break.

Chances are I'll find that out the hard way. If none of the release methods simmering in my head work out, I may try to make a separate mold. We'll see what actually pans out.


Edited by Foogoo, April 22 2015 - 8:13 AM.

Camponotus vicinus, Crematogaster 1, Crematogaster 2, Formica francoeuri, *, *, Myrmecocystus testaceus, Novomessor cockerelli, Pheidole hyatti, Pogonomyrmex californicus, Pogonomyrmex rugosus, Solenopsis invicta


#38 Offline dspdrew - Posted April 22 2015 - 9:46 AM

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Finding clear glass tubes has been difficult for me. There are plenty acrylic tubes of all sizes available on Amazon, but they aren't cheap.



#39 Offline Foogoo - Posted April 22 2015 - 10:01 AM

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Finding clear glass tubes has been difficult for me. There are plenty acrylic tubes of all sizes available on Amazon, but they aren't cheap.

Rectangular would probably work too, but I'm thinking about keeping it compact since my goal is for founding queens.

 

Assuming that breakage from curing isn't an issue but removing is the clay mold is, I'm looking at dissolvable molding material (mandrels). There's a product called Aquacore which can be dissolved by water and I already asked them about its viscosity and price. Others have suggested wax which can be melted out followed by a 50:50 blend of kerosene:acetone I'm thinking will be messy but ok if given time to de-gas. I also thought about using clayey sand and flushing it out with water. But if the ratio isn't just right, you might end up with a chunk of clay in your nest. Any other ideas?

 

List of soluble mandrels to explore:

- Aquacore

- Soluble wax

- Sodium silcate/sand mixture (Water Glass)


Edited by Foogoo, April 22 2015 - 10:36 AM.

Camponotus vicinus, Crematogaster 1, Crematogaster 2, Formica francoeuri, *, *, Myrmecocystus testaceus, Novomessor cockerelli, Pheidole hyatti, Pogonomyrmex californicus, Pogonomyrmex rugosus, Solenopsis invicta


#40 Offline kellakk - Posted April 22 2015 - 10:54 AM

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You can get polystyrene dram vials, that may work. I think they're fairly cheap too.

 

 

Take pictures as you do it, and create a picture how-to like I did.  :D

 

I have two picture how-to's in the works.

 

Definitely, I've already got some ideas to try and prove dspdrew wrong  :P . Any container ideas? I'd like to use a glass cylinder between 1"-4" in diameter or so but can't think of where I can find something like that.

 

Edit: Or acrylic/polycarbonate. Just not a huge fan of the cloudy tupperware material.

 

 

Maybe try polystyrene dram vials, I think they're fairly cheap.


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