This will help alot. I just caught 2 mated queens and I was wondering how to care for them....now I do.
how do you know they're mated?
This will help alot. I just caught 2 mated queens and I was wondering how to care for them....now I do.
how do you know they're mated?
Ants I am keeping:
none for now, planning on being more active this year
I saw the males on their abdomens.
I saw the males on their abdomens.
I caught a queen who was mating a couple years ago, but I tried to mover her to a test tube instead of a vial with sand and well... she didn't survive the process.
I made a meme ant care sheet for argentine ants lol.
if i find multiple queens should I risk polygynous or be safe with mono
シグナチャーです。예.
You can risk.
if i find multiple queens should I risk polygynous or be safe with mono
I'm having some good luck with three-queen-trios right now, and all of them have eggs.
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if i find multiple queens should I risk polygynous or be safe with mono
I would say mono is more risky than poly(jk) . Prenos do really good in poly colonies since they are extremely friendly with other queens so there is really minor chance of them to kill each other.
Just caught two Prenolepis imparis queens during their nuptial flight two days ago in north eastern Iowa. I put them together in a test tube. Does that normally work? Also, how long does it take for them to start laying eggs? I should heat them right? It is probably 70 degrees in there with the heating cable. Sorry for so many questions, this is my first time I've kept this species.
Why keep ants that aren't found in your yard?
There are so many fascinating ants right were you live!
I disagree with the keeping/buying of ants that are not found in your area.
Just caught two Prenolepis imparis queens during their nuptial flight two days ago in north eastern Iowa. I put them together in a test tube. Does that normally work? Also, how long does it take for them to start laying eggs? I should heat them right? It is probably 70 degrees in there with the heating cable. Sorry for so many questions, this is my first time I've kept this species.
P. Imparis are known to be polygynous, so yes, you can put multiple queens in the same tube. They are a very slow growing species that takes 2-3 months from egg to worker. Do not heat them as they much prefer cooler temperatures. Room temp will suffice.
I think the northern populations are not polygynous, I might be wrong though.P. Imparis are known to be polygynous, so yes, you can put multiple queens in the same tube. They are a very slow growing species that takes 2-3 months from egg to worker. Do not heat them as they much prefer cooler temperatures. Room temp will suffice.Just caught two Prenolepis imparis queens during their nuptial flight two days ago in north eastern Iowa. I put them together in a test tube. Does that normally work? Also, how long does it take for them to start laying eggs? I should heat them right? It is probably 70 degrees in there with the heating cable. Sorry for so many questions, this is my first time I've kept this species.
I posted this to another thread, hope it helps:
I've been keeping a colony since 2017 (laid her 3rd batch of eggs in June.) The first workers are capable of being repletes, but don't store a lot. Not much really happens their first season. In their second season, they usually start laying the first non-nanitic workers and have a bit more size to them.
P. imparis is a relatively easy species to keep if you remember these facts...
- They grow very slowly if you start with a single queen colony
- They are expert escape artists and can climb over fluon (lost a good chunk of this colony to the room...)
- Northern varieties have typically two diapause events, one in the late Spring, the other in the Winter
- Southern varieties tend to have diapause that can last for up to 9-10 months of the year!
- It's often easy to tell when diapause start/stops as they will stop in activity, often closing off the next entrance. Typically taking in a LOT of proteins and sugars before they do.
- They often only lay eggs in a few batches once a year (at least the Northern ones I've observed.)
- Unlike most ants who require proteins after they have brood, P. imparis need proteins *before* their diapause in the summer. They store the proteins in the repletes, and the brood is fed entirely off the repletes until diapause is over (can be a tense time if they have insufficient reserves.)
- I believe it's a myth they need to be kept at cold temperatures during the summer. I've kept the colony successfully at 75-85F in the summer, and they have laid and had brood
- Both times my queen laid again, her she gorged on foods, and her gaster swelled considerably, then she laid a few batches of eggs during the summer diapause
- I do a winter diapause of 2-3 months at 45F with the rest of my ants, Dec 1- Feb 1 typically.
- They are opportunistic feeders and I find not very picky for sugars or proteins
Hope this helps
By the way, what else can you use as an escape barrier? I can't find talcum powder
canada = boring!!!!!
I want attaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa!!!!!!!!!
also: Camponotus ca02 ( probably not possible though)
I posted this to another thread, hope it helps:
I've been keeping a colony since 2017 (laid her 3rd batch of eggs in June.) The first workers are capable of being repletes, but don't store a lot. Not much really happens their first season. In their second season, they usually start laying the first non-nanitic workers and have a bit more size to them.
P. imparis is a relatively easy species to keep if you remember these facts...
- They grow very slowly if you start with a single queen colony
- They are expert escape artists and can climb over fluon (lost a good chunk of this colony to the room...)
- Northern varieties have typically two diapause events, one in the late Spring, the other in the Winter
- Southern varieties tend to have diapause that can last for up to 9-10 months of the year!
- It's often easy to tell when diapause start/stops as they will stop in activity, often closing off the next entrance. Typically taking in a LOT of proteins and sugars before they do.
- They often only lay eggs in a few batches once a year (at least the Northern ones I've observed.)
- Unlike most ants who require proteins after they have brood, P. imparis need proteins *before* their diapause in the summer. They store the proteins in the repletes, and the brood is fed entirely off the repletes until diapause is over (can be a tense time if they have insufficient reserves.)
- I believe it's a myth they need to be kept at cold temperatures during the summer. I've kept the colony successfully at 75-85F in the summer, and they have laid and had brood
- Both times my queen laid again, her she gorged on foods, and her gaster swelled considerably, then she laid a few batches of eggs during the summer diapause
- I do a winter diapause of 2-3 months at 45F with the rest of my ants, Dec 1- Feb 1 typically.
- They are opportunistic feeders and I find not very picky for sugars or proteins
Hope this helps
By the way, what else can you use as an escape barrier? I can't find talcum powder
babypowder plus alcohol
I think the northern populations are not polygynous, I might be wrong though.
P. Imparis are known to be polygynous, so yes, you can put multiple queens in the same tube. They are a very slow growing species that takes 2-3 months from egg to worker. Do not heat them as they much prefer cooler temperatures. Room temp will suffice.Just caught two Prenolepis imparis queens during their nuptial flight two days ago in north eastern Iowa. I put them together in a test tube. Does that normally work? Also, how long does it take for them to start laying eggs? I should heat them right? It is probably 70 degrees in there with the heating cable. Sorry for so many questions, this is my first time I've kept this species.
Hmm, good to know. Can anyone verify this?
Why keep ants that aren't found in your yard?
There are so many fascinating ants right were you live!
I disagree with the keeping/buying of ants that are not found in your area.
Well, apparently nobody can verify, so as a precaution, I am going to separate them.
Why keep ants that aren't found in your yard?
There are so many fascinating ants right were you live!
I disagree with the keeping/buying of ants that are not found in your area.
Well, apparently nobody can verify, so as a precaution, I am going to separate them.
I have not talked to anyone that were not able to house multiple queens together, Also what do you count as Northern populations. I Am in illinois and they are polygynous here
Well, apparently nobody can verify, so as a precaution, I am going to separate them.
I have always done at least 3 queens per tube. Sometimes they tear one up. Sometimes they just naturally just flop over dead. I have caught dozens so I can say with confidence that pimps in my area in Maryland are polygynous
Wants (Please reach out if you have them for sale if you’re in the US): Acromyrmex Sp., Atta Sp., Cephalotes Sp., Myrmecocystus Sp (Prefer Mexicanus), Odontomachus Sp. (Prefer Desertorum), Pachycondyla Sp., Pheidole Sp (Prefer Rhea. The bigger the better. Not the tiny bicarinata), Pogonomyrmex Sp (Prefer Badius)., Pseudomyrmex Sp. (Prefer the cute yellow ones)
I have caught dozens so I can say with confidence that pimps in my area in Maryland are polygynous
Thanks for the replies. I think I will keep them separate because I don't want to keep disturbing them. Maybe next year I will try a polygenes colony again.
Why keep ants that aren't found in your yard?
There are so many fascinating ants right were you live!
I disagree with the keeping/buying of ants that are not found in your area.
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