1 reply to this topic

[Doonasaur]

Hey, could anyone give me some tips on how to take care of Florida Harvester ants. The best diets, how wet should their nests be and such. Thanks!

[123LordOfAnts123]

The species is easy to care for once it’s life history is considered and accounted for. The average hobbyist may have difficulty maintaining them long term.

The Pogonomyrmex genus in its entirety is highly partial to the ground. Colonies are often large and nests relatively massive in maturity when compared to others of more commonly kept species. Workers are highly modified for excavation and their tendency to exist in dry, often loose substrates and arid landscapes, means nests are deep and complex. Due to the latter statement there tends to be a high amount of worker partitioning in nest care based upon age. Because of this, a vertical nest may be necessary in captivity. A loose, removable substrate in the form of soil and sand may as well be a requirement. Pogonomyrmex badius is no exception to any of these rules.

Forget the strides made in recent years in regards to well planned and hydrated resin nests offering full visibility. They need a substrate, and for captive purposes it’s best to revert back to the original ant farm of dirt between two planes of glass. Unfortunately such formicarium don’t exist in the sizes and quality required for most of these ants, so the hobbyist must build one themselves. These can be constructed rather simply for small and founding nests, but for the purpose of keeping entire colonies of these large ants long term, thought should go into proper construction of such a formicaria. Hydration, capacity, heating, mobility, material, durability, and deconstruction/reconstruction should take importance in design. Keep in mind, a mature nest - all chambers included - may be up to 9 foot deep and 3 feet wide with a worker count from 5 to 10k ants. Obviously, a nest of such proportions is infeasible for most; captive nests will probably be cramped, but preferably in something no less then half the size of the wild nests’ measurements. Yearly to bi-yearly replenishment of substrate may be necessary lest the outworld becomes the nest.

As for diet, seeds and insects make the menu. Seeds should be of varieties no more than 1.5 mm wide for ants to effectively crack them open. Larger seeds may be fed on in pieces or after soaking/germination. More often than not suitable seeds can be collected outside from grasses and weeds.

Hydration of a substrate nest is extremely important in order to prevent flooding or collapse of tunnels. A careful balance must be attained. The bottom two thirds should remain slightly moist to moist while the top third should be allowed to dry out some. Hydration ultimately relies on how the nest was contructed. Though preferable results may be obtained by carefully pouring in water on the top portion which lies in the outworld or through carefully placed hydration tubes. Besides water itself, substrate composition dictates how well moisture is retained and the durability of tunnels. Sand mixtures are preferred, with an equal mix of both fine and coarse particals offering ideal results.

Heat should be provided, both in the outworld (where light and a proper day/night cycle should be available) to maintain worker activity, and on the nest itself to promote brood growth. Heat pads, heat cables, and infrared heat lights may all be utilized. Heat should be removed during winter months to allow for a natural resting period in which brood production halts.

Few people have had success with Pogonomyrmex despite their often local abundance. Fewer people have experience (and success) with this species. The good news is that Pogonomyrmex badius is a relatively well studied and understood ant, more so than many other Pogonomyrmex. No doubt due to their presence in easily excavated sands as well as easy accessibility to thriving populations living in close proximity.

Edited by 123LordOfAnts123, December 13 2017 - 5:57 PM.