59 replies to this topic

[AntsMAN]

The yellow mold has taken over a large part of the nest now. I've had them connected to a new nest for a few days now. I let the old nest dry out, and hydrated the new nest and added heat. Some workers found it right away, but only a few moved. Today I see they transferred the mold to the new nest, now I have two moldy nests and no idea where to go from here. They are dying off, and piling the dead on the mold. They are so slow, being so close to hibernation. I think this is the end for them. I will need to make a new nest, I have all mine used up at the moment.

I'm also scared my other colonies are at risk. Any suggestions? I'm going to try putting a heat lamp on the nest area to see if excessive heat will move them. But if I move them to the new nest will they transfer the spores?

 

 

 

 

Edited by AntsMAN, October 5 2016 - 4:40 PM.

[kellakk]

Are they in the new nest yet? If there's only a few workers in there, I'd put the workers back and clean the new nest again. Then, I'd move the colony to the new nest. There's no escaping the spores, though. They're in the air, so they'll be in the nest no matter how much you clean it.  Eliminating the conditions that lead to mold is the only way to prevent mold from happening. I usually only have mold problems when I overhydrate.  Is that a Camponotus sp? They don't usually need very high humidity, I think about 30% would be perfectly fine.  I've left one of my Camponotus colonies dry for a month with no problems.

[Works4TheGood]

If that happened to me, I'd warm them up to 78F and then give them a test tube setup or two (with tin foil wrapped around the outside for darkness) that they can move into in a pinch. Once moved, I'd test the molding nests for moisture levels and ventilation. Doesn't Drew use springtails to clear mold; and aren't springtails easily found all over the place?

[dspdrew]

Springtails are great for controlling mold, but if this is the same yellow mold that I frequently get, they might not be of too much help. They don't seem to like it.

[Leo]

Aren't tarheel ant formicariums mold-resistant?

[AntsMAN]

Are they in the new nest yet? If there's only a few workers in there, I'd put the workers back and clean the new nest again. Then, I'd move the colony to the new nest. There's no escaping the spores, though. They're in the air, so they'll be in the nest no matter how much you clean it.  Eliminating the conditions that lead to mold is the only way to prevent mold from happening. I usually only have mold problems when I overhydrate.  Is that a Camponotus sp? They don't usually need very high humidity, I think about 30% would be perfectly fine.  I've left one of my Camponotus colonies dry for a month with no problems.

I have kept them very dry. I'm going to do as suggested, get them out of the new nest and clean it with peroxide or vinegar, and go from there.

Edited by AntsMAN, October 6 2016 - 4:05 AM.

[Batspiderfish]

You might want to have them move back into test tubes.

[AntsMAN]

You might want to have them move back into test tubes.

 

I have used up all my test tubes. I have some on order, but by then it will be to late.

I've dealt with mold before but this yellow crap has me stressed.

I'm going to put the nest in the sun, connect them to a clean setup, and let fate decide.

[AntsMAN]

I found a few tubes and made this setup, and put them under the light. I also noticed the mold was underneath the out world material. Now soaked it in vinegar until it was a saturated. I went through all my colonies to make sure they were clean. And I'm doing a extra cleaning of my ant area.

I need a sterile environment, bad.

 

Edited by AntsMAN, October 7 2016 - 3:03 AM.

[AntsMAN]

They just won't move, its over 100F beside the light. They are the most stubborn little buggers. If they don't move soon they are going to cook.

Edited by AntsMAN, October 6 2016 - 2:51 PM.

[Alabama Anter]

Hmmmm don't let em cook

[Works4TheGood]

I presume that those tubes are what you want them to move in to. Perhaps they are too cold and bright?

[AntsMAN]

I tried everything to get them to move and they won't. They are dying off pretty fast now. Both of the new setups I gave them they filled with their dead.

This colony was given the same treatment and food as the others. Not sure what's going on here? The mold isn't growing anymore as the old nest is far to dry.

It's kind of sad to watch them stumble around and collapse, not knowing what if anything I can do for them.

 

The old nest I let soak over night in vinegar and It soaked through to the bottom. I rinsed and let it dry, but I can still see the bits of yellow mold sandwiched between the acrylic and nest material where I cannot remove it. Will it start growing again or will the vinegar have had time to kill it? Should I throw it away?

[Alabama Anter]

Throw it away...
Ask TarHeelAnts for a refund btw

[Foogoo]

Throw it away...
Ask TarHeelAnts for a refund btw

I don't see how this is a fault of the nest? It looks from the picture the mold is growing on debris or dead ants (I've had the exact same issue before). There's also no reason to throw it away. Clean it out well after you get them moved (I use alcohol then bake in the summer sun for a few days). While that doesn't definitively kill mold spores, keeping the humidity and debris regulated has helped mine prevent mold.

[dspdrew]

Soak it with alcohol.

[drtrmiller]

I'm really tired of people guessing at what kills mold. Here are the facts:

Fungi thrive in acidic environments. Vinegar, a weak (acetic) acid, will not kill fungal spores, but will suppress growth temporarily, until it all evaporates away.

Alcohol, again, has a drying effect on the fungus itself, but will not kill the spores, only keep them from germinating, until it evaporates away.

For hard, non-absorbent surfaces, only hydrogen peroxide or a strong, oxidizing base like sodium hypochlorite (aka bleach) will actually kill the fungal spores. Unfortunately with any plaster or grout formicarium, the molecules are too big to fully penetrate the medium. Still, it is the best option, short of dry heat.

Dry air hearing over 140 C (285 F) for 3 hours will guarantee complete sterilization. This is only possible with glass and heat-resistant materials, however.

Edited by drtrmiller, October 10 2016 - 6:16 PM.

[Alabama Anter]

BLEACH!!!!!!!!!! What about Tide Pods?
Sorry I had too...

[dspdrew]

I'm really tired of people guessing at what kills mold. Here are the facts:

Fungi thrive in acidic environments. Vinegar, a weak (acetic) acid, will not kill fungal spores, but will suppress growth temporarily, until it all evaporates away.

Alcohol, again, has a drying effect on the fungus itself, but will not kill the spores, only keep them from germinating, until it evaporates away.

For hard, non-absorbent surfaces, only hydrogen peroxide or a strong, oxidizing base like sodium hypochlorite (aka bleach) will actually kill the fungal spores. Unfortunately with any plaster or grout formicarium, the molecules are too big to fully penetrate the medium. Still, it is the best option, short of dry heat.

Dry air hearing over 140 C (285 F) for 3 hours will guarantee complete sterilization. This is only possible with glass and heat-resistant materials, however.

 

Hey, I only said alcohol because I actually just specifically asked my microbiologist friend the other night if it kills spores, and she said yes.

[drtrmiller]

Benzyl alcohol, or another aromatic might, but definitely not isopropanol or ethanol.

You only have to look under a microscope to see what happens to the spores. Alcohol does nothing but dry out the fleshy fruiting bodies, which are very porous and filled with water. H2O2 and similar oxidizing agents actually penetrate the cell wall and bleach the entire spore.