18 replies to this topic

[jjjakes]

Hey everyone,

 

I'll be using this thread to document the progress I make in designing formicariums made from clay. I know, I know, there's almost no other mention of this type of formicaria anywhere on the internet, except for a polish site that's hard to understand.  The reason I went with this method of building is I couldn't find Y-tong/Firebrick and grout seemed didn't have good aesthetics. 

 

Here's a short rundown of things you'll need and how to do it:

 

Pottery Clay (not some kids plasticine stuff) 

Access to a pottery kiln

Drywall boards or Tile backer board (Hardee)

Something to sculpt the clay with

 

 

 

1. Cut out the amount of clay that you'll need. Shape it into as clean of a ball as you can and then roll/press it into the type of form that you need. The thinner, the better, as a thicker piece of clay will take longer to dry and has a slight chance of exploding while being fired. 

 

2. Form the final shape of the formicarium. I've done a flat square to take advantage of all the space available. You'll want at least one side to be as completely flat as possible and its just easier to have both sides flat. 

 

3. Place your piece of clay onto the drywall board and cover with another drywall board on top. Leave for 8-12 hours to harden the clay up before you sculpt the chambers. Otherwise your clay will be too soft and you'll deform it when you try to make the chambers. 

 

4. After its hardened a bit, sculpt out the chambers. Make sure to make them a tiny bit bigger than what you need, as clay shrinks some in the drying/firing process. 

 

5. Put it back between the drywall boards and leave it between them for several days. 

 

6. If your formicarium has dried enough, you can put it on a wire rack to dry faster without worrying about warp. 

 

7. After 1-2 weeks of drying, depending on how humid the air is in the place it dried, you can take your formicarium and sand down the front surface to be completely flush on a pane of glass or plastic. 

 

8. Take it to a pottery kiln to be fired. Usually only costs about a dollar per pound of clay.

 

That's all.

 

I then put mine inside of a plastic box, filled the back with pebbles and a vinyl tube to connect the surface to the back of the formicarium for watering purposes. Then covered the top with some plaster, sand and native decorations I gathered from outside. 

 

 

 

If you have any questions, suggestions or ideas, let me know! 

 

I have a few more in the making so you'll see some more of these soon.

[dspdrew]

Nice. I spent quite a while researching ceramics and found that they would definitely be the best possible material for a formicarium, but they do have some downsides.

 

The trouble I have had with Ytong, Hydrostone and other gypsum-based materials is they just aren't hard enough. I have had Pogonomyrmex and Veromessor both chew their way through these materials over a long period of time. Fired clay I think would be pretty much impossible for them to chew through. Also gypsum-based materials will slowly dissolve in water. This was one thing that caused me a lot of trouble with my hydration systems. Fired clay will never dissolve.

 

The only problem with clay is that when fired, it shrinks and deforms, and of course, requires a kiln. Personally I think these are much smaller problems than the problems you have with gypsum based materials. I was about to buy a really small kiln to try messing with ceramics, but never got around to it. I'm interested in seeing how your formicariums do.

 

One thing I learned is that low-fire ceramics absorb the most water, and shrink the least. Are you using low-fire ceramics?

[BrittonLS]

That looks awesome.

 

Something tells me you probably have some art experience lol I'm working on one that looks a lot like that with a very similar box! But I'll probably get lazy on the decor and just use what I already have.

[antmaniac]

Very good craft there. I remember I only ever made a wobbly thing from clay in my art class. In my opinion, even though clay does not provide the water capability and ease of carving of the Ytong, it definitely provide a stronger material than Ytong. My Pheidole really chewed on Ytong (and plastic wrapping, basically anything they can chew on).

 

The trouble I have had with Ytong, Hydrostone and other gypsum-based materials is they just aren't hard enough. I have had Pogonomyrmex and Veromessor both chew their way through these materials over a long period of time. Fired clay I think would be pretty much impossible for them to chew through. Also gypsum-based materials will slowly dissolve in water. This was one thing that caused me a lot of trouble with my hydration systems. Fired clay will never dissolve.

 

Off topic, I find that my Pheidole also block up the gaps between the Ytong. My conclusion is, they try to expand the nest, then when they realise it lead to the outworld (air gap etc), they then try to block it up to protect/seal the nest and also from possible flooding etc. I can't say this is true for all species, as the species of Pheidole I had tend to be shy away and defend by retreat. Obviously the availability of spaces also plays a big factor in ants expansion/relocation.

[jjjakes]

Nice. I spent quite a while researching ceramics and found that they would definitely be the best possible material for a formicarium, but they do have some downsides.

 

The trouble I have had with Ytong, Hydrostone and other gypsum-based materials is they just aren't hard enough. I have had Pogonomyrmex and Veromessor both chew their way through these materials over a long period of time. Fired clay I think would be pretty much impossible for them to chew through. Also gypsum-based materials will slowly dissolve in water. This was one thing that caused me a lot of trouble with my hydration systems. Fired clay will never dissolve.

 

The only problem with clay is that when fired, it shrinks and deforms, and of course, requires a kiln. Personally I think these are much smaller problems than the problems you have with gypsum based materials. I was about to buy a really small kiln to try messing with ceramics, but never got around to it. I'm interested in seeing how your formicariums do.

 

One thing I learned is that low-fire ceramics absorb the most water, and shrink the least. Are you using low-fire ceramics?

Yeah, the finished ceramic is extremely hard, although it can shatter pretty easy. Had a few close calls. 

 

I've found that the biggest warping problems come when the clay is wet, a period of 3-4 days when you first start. From what I've seen, if you let your clay dry out completely, the in-kiln warping is non-existent to negligible. Why buy a kiln? Surely there's several pottery stores/workshops in Southern Cali?

 

And yes I'm using low fire ceramic clay, its fired at Cone 4, which is the lowest, I think. 

[jjjakes]

That looks awesome.

 

Something tells me you probably have some art experience lol I'm working on one that looks a lot like that with a very similar box! But I'll probably get lazy on the decor and just use what I already have.

Haha thanks. Yeah, I enjoy doing artsy things. Except those chambers are whacked, not very much space in them. I got the box from the Container store. 

 

 

Very good craft there. I remember I only ever made a wobbly thing from clay in my art class. In my opinion, even though clay does not provide the water capability and ease of carving of the Ytong, it definitely provide a stronger material than Ytong. My Pheidole really chewed on Ytong (and plastic wrapping, basically anything they can chew on).

 

Yep, its real strong. And it does absorb water, although not as good as Ytong, like you said. But I disagree about ease of carving. The clay is really easy to sculpt when wet, its just soo easy it can get de-formed.

[dspdrew]

I've found that the biggest warping problems come when the clay is wet, a period of 3-4 days when you first start. From what I've seen, if you let your clay dry out completely, the in-kiln warping is non-existent to negligible.

 

Interesting. Good to hear from someone who has firsthand experience with it. Now I'm really wanting to give this a try. I'm actually using unglazed tiles/coasters in my designs already, but being able to make exactly what I need would be a lot better.

 

 

Why buy a kiln? Surely theres several pottery stores/workshops in Southern Cali?

 

Actually I spent quite a while looking into this, and there are actually very few options here. I was really surprised, as I thought the same thing.

 

 

Have you tried pouring anything with clay slip? I was really wanting to try that out.

[jjjakes]

 

 

 

Actually I spent quite a while looking into this, and there are actually very few options here. I was really surprised, as I thought the same thing.

 

 

Have you tried pouring anything with clay slip? I was really wanting to try that out.

 

 

That's crazy. There's at least two commercial places in my city and there's way less people than the LA area. 

 

I haven't looked into slipcasting, using plain old clay sculpting has been fun for me. Although if you want to make a ton of formicariums like you probably do, that sounds like a good idea. 

[Crystals]

I am probably going to mess around with clay a bit in the coming year.  I joined our local pottery club this fall.  Our area actually has a nice clay deposit, so it just takes more volunteer work than money for the club to do well.  I have learned a bunch about our local clay, but next to nothing about other clays (and there is a huge difference between local clay types, so I found).

 

The problem with our local slip, even though we beat the clay slip up when hydrating it, is that is very difficult to get thingsto an even consistency without letting it dry and pugging it.  Some areas are softer, others more plyable, etc. 

Which is why we dry it out some and then run it through a pugging machine 2 times (more for really delicate work).

Once fired our "bisque" clay is very hard and absorbs water in a way you have to see to believe.

 

With our clay, it is mandatory that it is bone dry before firing it.  If it is dry, it does not warp in the kiln (or explode...).  While drying, it can shrink by 5-15% depending on the specific batch/mix

 

We would not be able to glaze the tunnels where the ants walk, but we could glaze around the tunnels with a food grade glaze.

 

I will have to try it this spring and take some pictures....

[dspdrew]

I wouldn't glaze any part of it.

[Foogoo]

Why buy a kiln? Surely there's several pottery stores/workshops in Southern Cali?

 

Actually I spent quite a while looking into this, and there are actually very few options here. I was really surprised, as I thought the same thing.

What about building your own?

[antmaniac]

 

Why buy a kiln? Surely there's several pottery stores/workshops in Southern Cali?

 

Actually I spent quite a while looking into this, and there are actually very few options here. I was really surprised, as I thought the same thing.

What about building your own?

 

I think you just gave him idea on gold making experiment, I meant alchemy.

[dspdrew]

 

Why buy a kiln? Surely theres several pottery stores/workshops in Southern Cali?

 

Actually I spent quite a while looking into this, and there are actually very few options here. I was really surprised, as I thought the same thing.

What about building your own?

 

 

Looks like I have another project.

[NightsWebs]

ok not an artsy type but I am unsure how you would approach a multi sided formicarium like Ytong offers.  I know some of us are quite fond of our bricks but now I am interested in the development of clay formicariums.  I will have lots of questions once this gets going with everyones experiments.  Drew I will look up places for Kilns in your area as well. I know of several stores in the San Diego area that have kilns. 

[Foogoo]

I might try building one too, just for the heck of it. Some other options:

 

An oven might work

After the steaks are done, slap on some pottery! (charcoal grill)

Set a trashcan on fire while you're at it

Firepit/bonfire. Not apartment friendly (but I'm going to try it anyway)

 

Edit: Small kilns that are reasonably priced.

Edited by Foogoo, December 15 2015 - 9:37 AM.

[dspdrew]

The first link is showing how you can dry your clay in an oven before firing it. An oven would never get hot enough to fuse clay particles together. I actually saw some of those other videos before back when I was researching this.

 

Luckily firing clay for this purpose doesn't require as much heat, so that should be less expensive in a few ways. I'm still trying to decide if I want to buy a kiln or make one.

[jjjakes]

ok not an artsy type but I am unsure how you would approach a multi sided formicarium like Ytong offers.  I know some of us are quite fond of our bricks but now I am interested in the development of clay formicariums.  I will have lots of questions once this gets going with everyones experiments.  Drew I will look up places for Kilns in your area as well. I know of several stores in the San Diego area that have kilns. 

 

It would be mostly the same. Create two slabs of clay, and sculpt a passage through the side of the slab that is going to sit flush with the corner and sculpt a connecting one with the second slab. 

If you're talking about behind the scenes connections, I don't think those would work. Not sure how it could be made and it also would have to be really thick, which isn't good for firing. 

[Crystals]

 

 

 

It would be mostly the same. Create two slabs of clay, and sculpt a passage through the side of the slab that is going to sit flush with the corner and sculpt a connecting one with the second slab. 

If you're talking about behind the scenes connections, I don't think those would work. Not sure how it could be made and it also would have to be really thick, which isn't good for firing. 

 

 

If corners were rounded and there was a chance of tunnel openings not lining up, you could attach different sides using vinyl tubing.  Once fired you could backfill with grout.

[gutrug]

See this is what I'm looking to do. Me and my partner have our own studio, kiln and drying room. My kiln can be programmed to work in any way I want it too such as longer and lower temperature firings. So It will be interesting too see what we could do