48 replies to this topic

[rptraut]

Lasius neoniger Update

 

 

In this post I'll update the progress of the three Lasius neoniger colonies I'm keeping.   The largest colony that I acquired this spring continues to grow at a steady pace, although they have been slowing down lately.   Their formicarium has a sponge at the rear that I keep moist.    This is where they seem to like to keep their larvae, right on top of the sponge.   I'm sure the queen has a nice hole carved out of the moss where she can lay her eggs, undisturbed.    They mature their cocoons in one of the bottles or test tubes I have imbedded in the moss.   

 

 

 

I very seldom open up the back of these formicaria, less disturbance is best, I believe.    I watch my ants as they collect their food and assess the colony's condition by the number of workers and how vigorously they collect the amount of food I've given them.   This is one of the reasons I like to feed meat products, I know how much I've given them, and I can monitor their intake from day to day.   The protein in meat and insects is used primarily for brood production and growth, so their intake of protein gives a general idea of how the colony is growing from day to day.     I usually have an "observation colony' that I look at every day to monitor brood development.   Some colonies can get quite used to being viewed if it's done every day.   From their progress I get a pretty good idea of how the other colonies are progressing.   

 

 

 

 

Both of the founding colonies were originally found living in acorns.    They were transferred to two founding formicaria, the one above is made mainly of sphagnum moss with a bottle imbedded in it and covered in green moss.    Each has a water tower and sponge to humidify the nest. 

 

 

 

 

 

The ants in this setup are raising their larvae on top of a layer of sphagnum moss, cocoons are kept in the bottle in behind.    

 

 

 

 

 

The second setup is made of grout and vermiculite compound with moss in front for an oasis.   A small bottle is imbedded in the moss.

 

 

 

 

 

The queen, eggs and larvae are living in the bottle in the moss in the front, they mature their cocoons in one of the chambers above the heat.  I'll probably turn the heat mat off this week as it's time for the ants to prepare for winter.   Good Luck with your ants.

RPT

 

 

 

[Ants_Dakota]

Lasius neoniger Update

 

 

In this post I'll update the progress of the three Lasius neoniger colonies I'm keeping.   The largest colony that I acquired this spring continues to grow at a steady pace, although they have been slowing down lately.   Their formicarium has a sponge at the rear that I keep moist.    This is where they seem to like to keep their larvae, right on top of the sponge.   I'm sure the queen has a nice hole carved out of the moss where she can lay her eggs, undisturbed.    They mature their cocoons in one of the bottles or test tubes I have imbedded in the moss.   

 

 

IMG_8184.JPG

 

I very seldom open up the back of these formicaria, less disturbance is best, I believe.    I watch my ants as they collect their food and assess the colony's condition by the number of workers and how vigorously they collect the amount of food I've given them.   This is one of the reasons I like to feed meat products, I know how much I've given them, and I can monitor their intake from day to day.   The protein in meat and insects is used primarily for brood production and growth, so their intake of protein gives a general idea of how the colony is growing from day to day.     I usually have an "observation colony' that I look at every day to monitor brood development.   Some colonies can get quite used to being viewed if it's done every day.   From their progress I get a pretty good idea of how the other colonies are progressing.   

 

 

 

IMG_8185.JPG

 

Both of the founding colonies were originally found living in acorns.    They were transferred to two founding formicaria, the one above is made mainly of sphagnum moss with a bottle imbedded in it and covered in green moss.    Each has a water tower and sponge to humidify the nest. 

 

 

 

 

IMG_8187.JPG

 

The ants in this setup are raising their larvae on top of a layer of sphagnum moss, cocoons are kept in the bottle in behind.    

 

 

 

 

IMG_8189.JP

 

The second setup is made of grout and vermiculite compound with moss in front for an oasis.   A small bottle is imbedded in the moss.

 

 

 

 

IMG_8194.JPG

 

The queen, eggs and larvae are living in the bottle in the moss in the front, they mature their cocoons in one of the chambers above the heat.  I'll probably turn the heat mat off this week as it's time for the ants to prepare for winter.   Good Luck with your ants.

RPT

Beautiful colonies, and I love the second setup nest! This is a great reminder that ants can live in many places, and that an expensive formicaria from a distributer is not necessary.

[rptraut]

Observing Colony Behaviour and Activity

 

There are some ants and ant colonies that don't like to have their nest observed and disturbed, although they can become accustomed to being observed if it's done on a daily basis.    With this in mind, I usually have one or two colonies that aren't bothered by being observed because I check their nest every day.     From looking at these "observation colonies" it's easier for me to determine the cause of daily fluctuations in colony behaviour and activity that I observe in my other colonies.   

 

A perfect case in point happens at this time of year.    Throughout the summer my Camponotus colonies have been raising batches of brood.    As soon as the larvae goes into the cocoon stage, they stop taking protein, so there's a marked decrease in the colonies need for it, consequently the ants suddenly seem to stop eating, sometimes almost overnight.     At this time of year, they've eclosed their last batch of cocoons.   Resting and housekeeping seem to be the main activity.    What seems like a reason for concern is merely the normal development of the colony as they approach winter.    Camponotus ants overwinter with brood in the larva stage, most ants do.    After those cocoons have eclosed, the queen lays her final batch of eggs for the season.   It can take 20 to 30 days for those eggs to hatch; the young larvae are fed initially to grow a bit, but even that stops when they've developed enough for diapause.    What seems like a reduction in activity and feeding is just the colony preparing for winter and the head start they give their larvae, ready for spring.   

 

There are ants like Formica, that overwinter with no brood, are there any others?    They must have quite a length of time in the fall when they require little protein.    I don't keep these ants; I'd be interested to hear your observations.   

RPT 

Edited by rptraut, September 20 2024 - 12:45 AM.

[rptraut]

Colony Update 28SE24

 

 Colonies Prepare for Winter

 

The Camponotus colonies continue to slow down and prepare for winter.    Some queens are laying their final batch of eggs for the season and others are waiting for their eggs to hatch.   

 

At this time of year there seems to be a trimming down of the number of workers as older workers die off.    I notice this happening in other colonies, especially older ones with many workers.   A lot of housecleaning also takes place with the removal of old carcasses and debris from the nest.    

 

My workshop isn't heated at this time of year, so temperatures fluctuate between day and night.   Cooler overall temperatures, especially at night, have surely signaled a change in the season for the ants.   

 

Lasius brevicornis Colony

 

For three seasons I nurtured a Lasius brevicornis colony from a single queen to a successful colony.    Unfortunately, during that time, they were busy working their way through a cotton plug that I thought was impenetrable.   I awoke one morning to find all of them gone.   Frustrating to say the least.    

 

Thankfully I was able to acquire a replacement colony this fall, so my experience with these ants isn't over.    Now I have to deal with how I'm going to house and overwinter this colony. 

 

Lasius neoniger Colonies  

 

The second season colony continued to raise brood and thrive throughout the summer and are only now slowing down.    They still take protein, but in much smaller amounts. 

 

The two founding colonies have benefitted greatly from the boost with cocoons I gave them in late summer.   The Lasius americanus workers are larger and more vigorous and have certainly increased the amount of food brought into the nest.    Both colonies have nice batches of cocoons waiting to eclose.   

 

Crematogaster Colony

 

 

 

This colony took protein well since I got them and only very recently started slowing down.   They take meat products fairly well but do seem partial to flies of all kinds.   This isn't unusual for young colonies and their diet will broaden as the colony grows in numbers. 

 

Brachymyrmex depilis Colony

 

Just yesterday this colony cleaned up a significant amount of their liver and chicken ration.   Often there were four or five workers foraging at the same time, a very encouraging sight.   

I did, however, have to remove some of the snails in the setup as they were beginning to compete with the ants for food.   Originally installed to eat mite eggs, the snails have gotten to a size where they were eating a significant amount, so I moved them to other colonies to eat trash and mite eggs.   

 

Thanks for reading my journal, more entries to follow.

RPT

 

 

[rptraut]

Update 13OC24

 

I've just returned from a week away and found all my colonies survived quite well with no escapes.    To get them through the time I was away, I gave them chicken thigh bones.   The large, voracious colonies got half of a thigh bone with knuckle and adhering scrap meat.   

 

 

 

 

By cutting the bone, the marrow is accessible and occupies the ants as they scour it out over quite a few days.   They also spend a lot of time cleaning the meat off the bone.   Medium sized colonies got half a knuckle, and small colonies got a piece of chicken bone, cut into lengths while frozen with pruning shears.   

 

In the past, I've lost colonies while I was on vacation because they ran out of water.   Tragically, it always seemed to be the most vigorously growing colonies when I underestimated the amount of water they would need while I was away.    I wasn't going to let that happen this time, so I made sure each colony was amply supplied.    Sugar/water was also provided that would last for a week.   Lastly, I reapplied escape barriers and double-checked past trouble spots to make sure everything was secure.    Everyone was safe and well behaved when I got home.

 

 

My Newest Acquisitions

 

Lasius brevicornis colony

In the past month I've been able to acquire two new colonies that I purchased from Canada Ant Colony.   I was pleased to get a Lasius brevicornis colony to replace one I'd lost two months ago.   They managed to escape through what I thought was a solid cotton plug.   Very disappointing, but this new colony will replace them quite nicely.

 

 

 

I attached their test tube to a feeding chamber with modeling clay.    I also used modeling clay to block a portion of the open end of the tube, allowing the ants to finish blocking the end and making their nest secure.   

 

 

 

 

The workers have built a wall, securing the queen and brood in a separate area of the tube.    Although it may look sinister, the barrier is built on an old feeding tray and consists of cotton and soil particles, not mold.   

 

 

 

Crematogaster Colony 2

I was also pleased to buy a second Crematogaster colony from Canada Ant Colony.   It's larger than my first colony, giving me an opportunity to compare each colony's progress.

 

 

 

 

I decided to attach a small feeding chamber to the test tube.   The test tube arrived with a broken end, making direct attachment impossible, so I enlarged the hole and mounted the entire end of the tube inside the feeding cube.    I mixed modeling clay and cotton together making what should be impenetrable barrier to form around the test tube, inside and out, attaching it to the cube.   

 

 

 

 

 

I left the cotton plug in place and forced a drinking straw between it and the test tube glass, allowing the ants access to the outworld feeding chamber.   This helps maintain the nest in the test tube and provides security for the ants.   I provided them with water, sugar/water and liver - well received.   

 

 

 

 

 

This colony has a large number of workers, a healthy-looking queen, and a significant brood pile.   It's the white patch in the middle of the colony and consists mainly of eggs and larvae.   I look forward to their development.

 

I'm grateful to Zach and Teddy of Canada Ant Colony for their attention to my order.   

RPT

 

 

[RushmoreAnts]

 

There are ants like Formica, that overwinter with no brood, are there any others?    They must have quite a length of time in the fall when they require little protein.    I don't keep these ants; I'd be interested to hear your observations.   

RPT 

Good afternoon rptraut,

 

I have kept Formica fusca group colonies consistently over the past several years varying success, and none of them overwinter brood. Queens usually stop egg production around early September, though I imagine this varies from climate to climate. This year I am keeping two Formica pallidefulva group colonies as well, and both of them also are not overwintering brood. My larger colony has 19 workers and is about to eclose their last pupa for the season, after which I will put them into hibernation. I also have a fusca group colony which has one more pupa left to eclose. My slave-raider queens who were accepted by host workers are waiting until next season before even laying their first eggs. None of these ants take protein after they cease egg production. Nightly temperatures are approaching freezing, so I will begin hibernation within the next few days. Hope this was informative.

Edited by RushmoreAnts, October 13 2024 - 10:41 AM.

[ANTdrew]

Impenetrable and barrier are two words I don’t lightly use together when discussing Crematogaster!

[rptraut]

Update 16OC24

 

Hello Everyone;

 

Thanks for the info RushmoreAnts, I've been waiting for the last batch of cocoons in my founding Lasius colonies to eclose so I can take them off the heat and get them ready for diapause.    ANTdrew, the new Crematogaster colony has pretty well slowed down for diapause, I'm not too worried about the modeling clay and cotton, I'm sure it will contain them until spring when I put them in their new formicarium.   Mixing the cotton and clay is one way of strengthening both materials.   The cotton holds the clay together while the clay holds the cotton together, much like fiberglass strengthens concrete and horsehair strengthens plaster.   The test tube fits tightly into the hole, the clay/cotton only has to hold the tube in place.   

 

Making a New Crematogaster Formicarium

 

I thought you might be interested to see the formicarium I'm building for the new Crematogaster colony.    I used an old piece of barnboard, and I carved out the chambers with a router.   I intend to pour a grout/vermiculite mixture for a base.   I've used a piece of sponge for hydration.

 

 

 

 

I'm not sure how large the chambers should be, or what size would be found in a wild colony.    Any comments would be appreciated. 

 

 

 

 

From the front there are numerous access holes to the chambers.   Hydration of the sponge is from the front as well.

Please enjoy the building process with me.

RPT

Edited by rptraut, October 16 2024 - 12:27 AM.

[ANTdrew]

Crematogaster will love that! I say make the chambers deeper, since they'll fill them up in no time next spring. 

[Ants_Dakota]

I have a few recommendations.
Firstly, double check to make sure the sponge does not contain any detergent mixtures from wherever you bought it. I have had experiences with this before where a sponge, even after I wash it, has killed ants because it contains soap. A high quality sponge like PVA is optimal as well, as it resists mold really well.
You are probably aware of this next one, but with any nests that contain indirect channel hydration, you will need to provide your ants with constant water supplies or else they will die very quickly.
Good luck, I look forward to your success!
Ants_Dakota

[rptraut]

Update 17OC24

 

Crematogaster Formicarium Build

 

Thanks for your suggestions and information.   I thought to clarify what I've done so far, that better pictures and explanation of what I've done so far would be useful.   I've provided a ruler for scale. 

 

The container I'm using was meant originally for food storage, it has heavy acrylic walls and a lever action lid that pulls the rubber seal up against the inside of the walls.   The beauty of this system is that a 1/4-inch area of deterrent at the top is protected from any interference by ants.    The lid is also easy to open.  

 

 

 

 

I used a piece of old barnboard which is hemlock and is resistant to rot and mold.   The hydration chamber and sponge are located in the bottom right corner.   A drainage hole from the chamber directs excess water to the right corner where I'll make an oasis, or wet hole which is a component of most of my formicaria.   When I pour the grout base, I'll slope it to this area.   The bottom of the board will be hydrated from this area as well.   

 

Thanks for the warning about the sponge and detergent Ants Dakota, the ones I use are new, cosmetic sponges used for removing makeup.   I've used the same sponge to feed my colonies for the past four years and I trust that it's safe.    There's a small opening in the chamber at the top of the sponge where ants can access water.   

 

 

 

 

 

Close-up, you can see the chambers more clearly.   The board is 7/8 inch, (2.5 cm) thick, so slightly less than that is the maximum depth of the chambers I can carve.    I varied to depth of the chambers; my other ants seem to like that.   I could make some chambers higher or larger (I think that's what you meant ANTdrew) or add more length to ones that are there.   Also, do they prefer numerous connections between chambers or one or two only?   I'm open to suggestions.  

 

 

 

 

From the front you can see the feeding port and the connector tubes at the left front and rear right.   Right and left vents have 100 mesh stainless steel screen.   The hydration tube leads to the sponge and numerous holes in the board provide access to the nest.   

 

Thanks for any suggestions you might offer, this is a work in progress, and I look forward to your input.

 

 

Colony Updates

 

 

 

Preparing for diapause, there's a slower pace to most colonies.   I have to show you the egg and larvae masses in one of my Tapinoma sessile colonies.   

 

 

My Camponotus colonies are pretty well shut down for winter, but my Brachymyrmex depilis, and Lasius colonies are still taking quantities of protein.   The others are still taking small amounts of protein, most have slowed right down.   

 

Thanks for reading my journal, I welcome your comments.  

RPT

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[ANTdrew]

Your Crematogaster will love that nest! Hopefully you’ll also get to see some carton building behavior as they shave off wood pulp and customize the nest. I’ve observed this before with this species.

[rptraut]

Update 19OC24

 

Crematogaster Formicarium Build

 

To increase the nest area, I enlarged and extended some chambers and added a couple more.   I used the handheld trim router and various bits pictured below. 

 

 

 

 

A close-up of the chambers.

 

 

 

Hopefully this additional nest area will keep the colony contained for their next season, what do you think?

RPT

 

 

 

[ANTdrew]

Now we’re talkin’!

[Ants_Dakota]

Really nice, I actually did not know a handheld router existed so this gives me ideas...

Edited by Ants_Dakota, October 19 2024 - 6:38 AM.

[rptraut]

20OC24

 

Crematogaster Formicarium Build

 

Thanks for your comments.    For the record, I thought I'd show you some of the tools I use in my woodworking hobby that also make constructing DIY formicaria a lot easier.    Routers, like the ones pictured below, are especially useful when constructing nest chambers in wood.   I've used this type of wood nest for Camponotus with great success.   Ants Dakota, I thought you might find this interesting; I remember Utah Ants asked about carving chambers in wood in another post, I hope he sees this too.  

 

 

 

The router on the left, you've seen before, both of these routers have handles on both sides.    By turning the handles, you can lock the cutting bit at the depth you want.   They each have a base that can be used to follow a guide, making cuts that are precise, or they can be used freehand.    You probably recognize the base unit of the router on the right, a modification is available that converts it to a router, for smaller more delicate projects.   For the really big jobs I use the router table, (in the background), that has a full-sized router mounted upside down which is useful for shaping things like moulding.   These three routers give me flexibility to choose the right size and power of tool for the job I'm doing. 

RPT  

Edited by rptraut, October 26 2024 - 2:19 AM.

[Ants_Dakota]

20OC24

Crematogaster Formicarium Build

Thanks for your comments. For the record, I thought I'd show you some of the tools I use in my woodworking hobby that also make constructing DYI formicaria a lot easier. Routers, like the ones pictured below, are especially useful when constructing nest chambers in wood. I've used this type of wood nest for Camponotus with great success. Ants Dakota, I thought you might find this interesting; I remember Utah Ants asked about carving chambers in wood in another post, I hope he sees this too.


IMG_8242.JPG

The router on the left, you've seen before, both of these routers have handles on both sides. By turning the handles, you can lock the cutting bit at the depth you want. They each have a base that can be used to follow a guide, making cuts that are precise, or they can be used freehand. You probably recognize the base unit of the router on the right, a modification is available that converts it to a router, for smaller more delicate projects. For the really big jobs I use the router table, (in the background), that has a full-sized router mounted upside down which is useful for shaping things like moulding. These three routers give me flexibility to choose the right size and power of tool for the job I'm doing.
RPT

I do really appreciate you sharing your expertise on this subject, as this opens up more affordable avenues for antkeepers to create formicatia in the future. I wonder if it is possible to use a handheld router such as this to carve out firebrick, or would that be too brittle and harm the bit?

[OwlThatLikesAnts]

 

Crematogaster Colony 2

I was also pleased to buy a second Crematogaster colony from Canada Ant Colony.   It's larger than my first colony, giving me an opportunity to compare each colony's progress.

 

IMG_8199.JPG

 

I decided to attach a small feeding chamber to the test tube.   The test tube arrived with a broken end, making direct attachment impossible, so I enlarged the hole and mounted the entire end of the tube inside the feeding cube.    I mixed modeling clay and cotton together making what should be impenetrable barrier to form around the test tube, inside and out, attaching it to the cube.   

 

IMG_8201.JPG

 

I left the cotton plug in place and forced a drinking straw between it and the test tube glass, allowing the ants access to the outworld feeding chamber.   This helps maintain the nest in the test tube and provides security for the ants.   I provided them with water, sugar/water and liver - well received.   

 

IMG_8212.JPG

 

This colony has a large number of workers, a healthy-looking queen, and a significant brood pile.   It's the white patch in the middle of the colony and consists mainly of eggs and larvae.   I look forward to their development.

 

I'm grateful to Zach and Teddy of Canada Ant Colony for their attention to my order.   

RPT

What was the size of the Crematogaster you bought?, I'm guessing 50-100 workers, right? Also how was the shipping time, like if It is 1 week or something and if I need to buy in advance, Also If I were to buy the Crematogaster colony with other things, would they arrive at the same time? 

Edited by OwlThatLikesAnts, October 20 2024 - 7:27 AM.

[AntsGodzilla]

 

 

Crematogaster Colony 2

I was also pleased to buy a second Crematogaster colony from Canada Ant Colony.   It's larger than my first colony, giving me an opportunity to compare each colony's progress.

 

IMG_8199.JPG

 

I decided to attach a small feeding chamber to the test tube.   The test tube arrived with a broken end, making direct attachment impossible, so I enlarged the hole and mounted the entire end of the tube inside the feeding cube.    I mixed modeling clay and cotton together making what should be impenetrable barrier to form around the test tube, inside and out, attaching it to the cube.   

 

IMG_8201.JPG

 

I left the cotton plug in place and forced a drinking straw between it and the test tube glass, allowing the ants access to the outworld feeding chamber.   This helps maintain the nest in the test tube and provides security for the ants.   I provided them with water, sugar/water and liver - well received.   

 

IMG_8212.JPG

 

This colony has a large number of workers, a healthy-looking queen, and a significant brood pile.   It's the white patch in the middle of the colony and consists mainly of eggs and larvae.   I look forward to their development.

 

I'm grateful to Zach and Teddy of Canada Ant Colony for their attention to my order.   

RPT

What was the size of the Crematogaster you bought?, I'm guessing 50-100 workers, right? Also how was the shipping time, like if It is 1 week or something and if I need to buy in advance, Also If I were to buy the Crematogaster colony with other things, would they arrive at the same time? 

 

Just like most ant stores, I assume they would ship everything at the same time, since you would only pay for shipping once.

[rptraut]

Hello Ants Dakota;

 

I'm happy to be of help, woodworking's been a lifetime hobby of mine, I'm pleased to share what I know.   I'm sure that firebrick would destroy or at least dull any bit that's made for wood.   There are bits available for use with hand drills to make holes in concrete.    They have a carborundum insert in the tip that's made for drilling hard materials.    You might be able to find something similar for use with a router.    I'd also get a face shield and mask to protect yourself from flying pieces and dust.   A stone mason might be able to help you find a bit that would work, or, a business that makes grave markers, they must cut stone with something that would work on firebrick.   Good Luck

 

Hello OwlThatLikesAnts;

 

I purchased both a 25-50 worker and a 50-100 worker Crematogaster colonies from Canada Ant Colony.   As far as shipping time goes, at checkout you can choose different options with different shipping times.    I usually choose "Expedited Parcel Delivery" that assures delivery within five to seven business days for delivery.   In my experience, it usually takes seven business days for me to receive a package from them (it's a two-hour drive from my place) I have no idea how long it would take to get where you are in British Columbia.    You asked in a different post about the heat pack, I've bought them before when I ordered queens and they arrived in good condition despite the weather being below freezing, it's cheap insurance.    You can email Teddy at Canada Ant Colony for specific details about your situation and purchase.   

 

I've never purchased anything other than ants from Canada Ant Colony.    As AntsGodzilla said, I expect they would ship the entire order in one package, on the order form is an area where you can send them a note about your purchase; you can request that they ship everything together there.   Good Luck

RPT