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Dspdrew's Formicarium 05 Research and Design (Updated 11-22-2023)

formicarium container out world enclosure how-to diy design dspdrew nest tutorial

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237 replies to this topic

#161 Offline dspdrew - Posted March 20 2015 - 12:36 PM

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  • LocationSanta Ana, CA

Drew, how durable was that silicone mold?

Also, did you make your own silicone mold mix, or buy one?

 

As far as I can see it is very durable. It's platinum-cure silicone.

 

http://www.reynoldsa.../mold-star-20t/



#162 Offline NorthEdge - Posted March 20 2015 - 4:18 PM

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Have you found a material that will fix your erosion problems? I'm not sure if this will help, but the cement used to make these concrete coasters seems like a potentially useful substance. I was curious about it as I find the lack of large pores aesthetically pleasing. Unfortunately I haven't found any information on what is used to make it other than portland cement and "recycled" ash. I assume this means a blend of portland cement and wood ash, not fly ash.  



#163 Offline drtrmiller - Posted March 20 2015 - 4:37 PM

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Have you found a material that will fix your erosion problems? I'm not sure if this will help, but the cement used to make these concrete coasters seems like a potentially useful substance.

 

Whether a material will absorb water is only half the challenge.

 

The other half is the mechanical property that determines whether determined ants will be able to chew through the material, and whether the material softens in perpetually damp or wet conditions.




byFormica® is the manufacturer of the iconic nectar feeders and Sunburst Ant Nectar.
byFormica ant products always deliver consistent performance, convenience,
and reliability, making them among the most beloved ant foods and kit enjoyed by
ant keeping enthusiasts worldwide. For more information, visit www.byFormica.com.

#164 Offline NorthEdge - Posted March 20 2015 - 5:11 PM

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The other half is the mechanical property that determines whether determined ants will be able to chew through the material, and whether the material softens in perpetually damp or wet conditions.

 

I'm not sure where my post lead you to believe I didn't understand this. I was suggesting another material that may be worth testing for these properties. You're certainly not going to find the answer for either of those questions readily available online. 

 

Unless you are bringing this up because of the cracked surface of the coaster? If so that is merely a design choice by the coaster's manufacturer, they also sell uncracked designs. 


Edited by NorthEdge, March 20 2015 - 5:11 PM.

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#165 Offline drtrmiller - Posted March 20 2015 - 5:12 PM

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I was just clarifying and adding to your description for the benefit of other readers.




byFormica® is the manufacturer of the iconic nectar feeders and Sunburst Ant Nectar.
byFormica ant products always deliver consistent performance, convenience,
and reliability, making them among the most beloved ant foods and kit enjoyed by
ant keeping enthusiasts worldwide. For more information, visit www.byFormica.com.

#166 Offline dspdrew - Posted March 21 2015 - 6:36 PM

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  • LocationSanta Ana, CA

Yes, one of the biggest challenges has been finding something fairly absorbent, yet hard enough to keep the ants from chewing through it. It seems the combination of both of those characteristics is not easy to find. Portland cement, which is probably used in that coaster is definitely hard enough to keep ants from chewing through it, and if they found a way to keep its strength, yet make it much more absorbent, then that would be great. It just seems like every time anything is done to cement to make it absorbent, it also becomes week. I will admit, after seeing this, I'm tempted to get the cement out again.
 
BTW NorthEdge , yeah I started using unglazed ceramics. That works for some things, but not all since it can't always be cast.



#167 Offline SMILEforAnts - Posted March 25 2015 - 10:14 PM

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Honestly, I don't think I was ever able to find them on their website, no matter how I tried to do it. It really is a terrible website.

 

Edit: Finally found them here (http://www.container...0032168&N=80804).

 

Here's the manufacturer's hard-to-find website (http://www.weareboxb...ndexboxbox.html). They have all different sizes, and they fit together very nicely. What I love is the lid is actually designed the same as the box, essentially making it just an extremely short box itself. This makes the boxes and lids totally stackable in any order you want.

 

This (http://www.weareboxb...om/BB01031.html) is the exact box I am using as the out world in this formicarium.

 

Whaaaaat! I was just about to order some containers. $5.99 is a great deal but $30 shipping to Hawaii! That's ridiculous! They need to open up a Container Store here. We don't even have a dollar store too ._.

 

Damn island problems lol. I propose a bridge from Hawaii to California! Who's with me!? x]


SMILEforAnts [YouTube channel]

Pictures of my past colony [Pheidole megacephala]


#168 Offline dspdrew - Posted March 25 2015 - 10:23 PM

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  • LocationSanta Ana, CA

Hah. Maybe you should try ordering them directly from the manufacturer. That's probably what I should be doing.



#169 Offline SMILEforAnts - Posted March 25 2015 - 10:36 PM

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I would want to try that but don't manufacturers have a minimum amount to order, like in bulk or something? I just need a couple to a dozen, not like 5 cases of it or anything like that lol.

 

Anyway if not, the search continues.....


SMILEforAnts [YouTube channel]

Pictures of my past colony [Pheidole megacephala]


#170 Offline dspdrew - Posted March 30 2015 - 7:56 PM

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Some do. You would have to find out.



#171 Offline PTAntFan - Posted April 2 2015 - 11:44 AM

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Drew,

 

Have you considered passing a column through the outworld so that you can fill the water tank from on top of the formicarium without having to move it?

 

Something like the attached?

Attached Images

  • drewsforma.png

Edited by PTAntFan, April 2 2015 - 11:48 AM.

PTAntFan----------------------------------Pogonomyrmex Californicus*****************************<p>I use the $3 Tower I made up. See it here.

#172 Offline dspdrew - Posted April 2 2015 - 12:47 PM

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  • LocationSanta Ana, CA

Yes I've thought about that before, but I don't really like how it complicates things.



#173 Offline PTAntFan - Posted April 3 2015 - 1:56 PM

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Getting the fitting right passing through the outworld would be a challenge for sure. 


PTAntFan----------------------------------Pogonomyrmex Californicus*****************************<p>I use the $3 Tower I made up. See it here.

#174 Offline dspdrew - Posted April 5 2015 - 9:06 PM

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  • LocationSanta Ana, CA

Have you found a material that will fix your erosion problems? I'm not sure if this will help, but the cement used to make these concrete coasters seems like a potentially useful substance. I was curious about it as I find the lack of large pores aesthetically pleasing. Unfortunately I haven't found any information on what is used to make it other than portland cement and "recycled" ash. I assume this means a blend of portland cement and wood ash, not fly ash.  

 

I read a big long PDF that talked all about the use of fly ash in concrete. It basically can take the place of a lot of the portland cement, making the concrete more eco-friendly since fly ash is a byproduct of burning coal. One thing they say it does to the concrete is it makes it a lot less absorbent. This is what I don't understand when the company claims the fly ash makes the concrete in their product "ultra water-absorbent". I searched and searched, and couldn't find anything but the exact opposite claim.



#175 Offline dspdrew - Posted April 5 2015 - 9:22 PM

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  • LocationSanta Ana, CA
I recently upgraded the prototype housing my Veromessor pergandei colony with one of the cast resin nests with the sand-like texture. The PVA sponge has worked alright all this time, but it just stays way too wet. The sponge absorbs water so well, that there is no moisture gradient at all, leaving the entire back of the nest soaked at all times. This causes a lot of the ants to sit around outside the nest where it's presumably a lot more comfortable to them. I am now using an unglazed ceramic tile for the backing of the nest. The ceramic tile is much stronger than Ytong or Hydrostone, and should not dissolve over time like they did. The ceramic tile absorbs just the right amount of water, creating a much better moisture gradient than the PVA sponge did. There was absolutely no damage to the nylon mesh after housing my Veromessor pergandei for months. The tile obviously eliminates he need for any mesh.
 
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#176 Offline Mercutia - Posted April 6 2015 - 5:42 AM

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How much water is the "right amount" of water.

 

Could I go to the hardware store and just pick up an unglazed ceramic tile and use that? O:



#177 Offline dspdrew - Posted April 6 2015 - 11:21 AM

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  • LocationSanta Ana, CA

The ceramic tile absorbs water until the tile is just slightly damp near the top, and close to saturated at the very bottom where the sponge from the water tank is touching it.

 

Any unglazed ceramic tile would probably work, although low-fire ceramics are more absorbent. If your hardware store sells them, then go pick one up and try it out. Just set one side of it in some water and see how it does. I get my tiles from Michaels. They're actually sold as plain white coasters.


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#178 Offline bbb211 - Posted April 6 2015 - 3:21 PM

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This has been an amazing read! I'm a total newbie at this so I'm reading everything in site. Just one question for Drew, how do you cut out all that nesting patterns out of the unglazed ceramic tile? Sorry I'm so new at this and hope it's not too stupid of a question...
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#179 Offline dspdrew - Posted April 6 2015 - 3:44 PM

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  • LocationSanta Ana, CA

The tile is only the backing. The nest was made from a mold. It's all covered in this thread; you just have to go back far enough.



#180 Offline NorthEdge - Posted April 6 2015 - 4:17 PM

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I read a big long PDF that talked all about the use of fly ash in concrete. It basically can take the place of a lot of the portland cement, making the concrete more eco-friendly since fly ash is a byproduct of burning coal. One thing they say it does to the concrete is it makes it a lot less absorbent. This is what I don't understand when the company claims the fly ash makes the concrete in their product "ultra water-absorbent". I searched and searched, and couldn't find anything but the exact opposite claim.

 

 

 

Yeah, I noticed that when I originally looked it up. However I never saw them specifically mention it was fly ash. Wood ash on the other hand does increase water absorbency in concrete, which is why I said I think they are using that, not fly ash. 

 

Here's one I found on portland cement and wood ash. The increase isn't all that impressive though.

http://www.cipremier...5/100035048.pdf







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