Edited by Idontexist, February 6 2024 - 5:33 PM.
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Edited by Idontexist, February 6 2024 - 5:33 PM.
Currently keeping
-T. immigrans
-B. patagonicus
-P. ???
I will want to also keep some other lasius types in the future.
You should also subscribe to my youtube channel! https://www.youtube.com/@AsdAnts
Yeah but If there’s substrate then she’ll be fine.You shouldn’t put odontomachus queens in test tubes, because of their lack of ability to climb.
Keeping:
3x - S. molesta (colonies and single queen) 1x - C. nearcticus (founding but no eggs) New!
1x - C. chromaiodes (colony) 1x - C. subbarbatus (founding)
1x - F. subsericea (founding) 1x - T. sessile (mega colony)
3x - P. imparis (colonies)
2x - L. neoniger (founding)
Check out my C. nearcticus journal here: https://www.formicul...cticus-journal/
Check out my C. chromaiodes journal here: https://www.formicul...aiodes-journal/
Odontomachus love soil. Some species of foundress queens will make a turret-shaped tunnel into a foundress chamber if you give them adequate amounts of soil. You will find lots of success with most foundress queens with the following food types (they're semi-Claustral, meaning they will need food to raise their first brood):
- Fruit Flies
- Wax Worms (Diced)
- Mealworms (Diced)
- Crickets (Diced)
It is recommended to have all protein-rich foods dropped in a cup of boiled water to discourage harmful Acarus mite growth within the test tube.
What species are you keeping?
Odontomachus love soil. Some species of foundress queens will make a turret-shaped tunnel into a foundress chamber if you give them adequate amounts of soil. You will find lots of success with most foundress queens with the following food types (they're semi-Claustral, meaning they will need food to raise their first brood):
- Fruit Flies
- Wax Worms (Diced)
- Mealworms (Diced)
- Crickets (Diced)
It is recommended to have all protein-rich foods dropped in a cup of boiled water to discourage harmful Acarus mite growth within the test tube.
What species are you keeping?
I mean, practically every species in the genus Odontomachus thrives in soil/substrate right? In founding it’s important though.Odontomachus love soil. Some species of foundress queens will make a turret-shaped tunnel into a foundress chamber if you give them adequate amounts of soil. You will find lots of success with most foundress queens with the following food types (they're semi-Claustral, meaning they will need food to raise their first brood):
- Fruit Flies
- Wax Worms (Diced)
- Mealworms (Diced)
- Crickets (Diced)
It is recommended to have all protein-rich foods dropped in a cup of boiled water to discourage harmful Acarus mite growth within the test tube.
What species are you keeping?
I do not know and I'm currently trying to identify the species but i have noticed that they lay more eggs if soil is added into their test tube
Keeping:
3x - S. molesta (colonies and single queen) 1x - C. nearcticus (founding but no eggs) New!
1x - C. chromaiodes (colony) 1x - C. subbarbatus (founding)
1x - F. subsericea (founding) 1x - T. sessile (mega colony)
3x - P. imparis (colonies)
2x - L. neoniger (founding)
Check out my C. nearcticus journal here: https://www.formicul...cticus-journal/
Check out my C. chromaiodes journal here: https://www.formicul...aiodes-journal/
Yeah but If there’s substrate then she’ll be fine.You shouldn’t put odontomachus queens in test tubes, because of their lack of ability to climb.
do tightly pack it though.
Currently keeping: Pheidole obscurithorax (FINALLY I CAN STUDY THEM AND HAVE THEIR COOL MAJORS ), Tetramorium bicarinatum, Solenopsis spp. (probably xyloni, the queens are tiny hehe)
Wanting: Atta texana, Camponotus planatus (PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE CAN SOMEONE HOOK ME UP WITH ATTA)
Previously kept: Monomorium minimum, Pheidole dentata
"ATTAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!!!!!!!!" -Me
"AAAAAAAATTTTTTTTTAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!" -Even more me
"AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAATTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!"- Me personified
GL with your journal, I hope you include some pics and videos later on, I love pictures and videos that you guys post of your ants.
I also have a bad memory and new to ants so many of the ants you guys post, I don't know what they are, but picture does help when I click and instantly see it. Google image it is!
JOURNAL: Camponotus CA02 - First Time At Ant Keeping CLICK HERE
JOURNAL: Ectomomyrmex cf. astutus - Ant Species #2 CLICK HERE
Don’t keep them myself, but I believe that it can take a while (they’re very closely related to bull ants is some way so for egg to worker is like 3-4 months; probably even longer) but this all depends on how much protein you give them per day. If you put them on heating (unless they’re already on heating) then expect much faster growth. Had a S. molesta queen near my heater, and her workers died off so I lost hope on her, but I fed her and she came back with a clutch of eggs. She went from egg to worker in about 1 1/2 week; which blew my mind. Anyways, If you want faster development just give her large amounts of protein like fruit fly for some amount of days, and then a mealworm, (or any larger prey) and set her on heating.No real update although i have been feeding her fruit flies that show up on my window snd other insects. what is the time it takes for the eggs to hatch? Speaking about eggs she seems very protective of them and carries them around
Edited by Artisan_Ants, February 5 2024 - 6:01 PM.
Keeping:
3x - S. molesta (colonies and single queen) 1x - C. nearcticus (founding but no eggs) New!
1x - C. chromaiodes (colony) 1x - C. subbarbatus (founding)
1x - F. subsericea (founding) 1x - T. sessile (mega colony)
3x - P. imparis (colonies)
2x - L. neoniger (founding)
Check out my C. nearcticus journal here: https://www.formicul...cticus-journal/
Check out my C. chromaiodes journal here: https://www.formicul...aiodes-journal/
Don’t keep them myself, but I believe that it can take a while (they’re very closely related to bull ants is some way so for egg to worker is like 3-4 months; probably even longer) but this all depends on how much protein you give them per day. If you put them on heating (unless they’re already on heating) then expect much faster growth. Had a S. molesta queen near my heater, and her workers died off so I lost hope on her, but I fed her and she came back with a clutch of eggs. She went from egg to worker in about 1 1/2 week; which blew my mind. Anyways, If you want faster development just give her large amounts of protein like fruit fly for some amount of days, and then a mealworm, (or any larger prey) and set her on heating.
Yeah, this genus is for advanced keepers, but if you have patience then they’re not so hard to take care of.Well that sounds like a very long time does it?
Keeping:
3x - S. molesta (colonies and single queen) 1x - C. nearcticus (founding but no eggs) New!
1x - C. chromaiodes (colony) 1x - C. subbarbatus (founding)
1x - F. subsericea (founding) 1x - T. sessile (mega colony)
3x - P. imparis (colonies)
2x - L. neoniger (founding)
Check out my C. nearcticus journal here: https://www.formicul...cticus-journal/
Check out my C. chromaiodes journal here: https://www.formicul...aiodes-journal/
One thing to look out for when keeping Ponerinae in test tubes is larvae failing to pupate, even when soil is added. In my experience, almost all the larvae in the second generation fail to pupate when raised in a test tube and I still don't know why the first generation succeeded but the next didn't. For me, this seemed to only happen in Odontomachus. Anochetus managed to get to third or fourth generation before having these issues and I never got Odontoponera to successfully pupate. The only time I got a colony past the second generation of workers is when I housed them in a dirt setup where they can dig freely. Maybe I'm just unlucky because I've heard of some people who kept their colonies in test tubes for years without having any pupation difficulties. Hopefully you won't encounter this issue, good luck.
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