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Wild bugs to feed ants & how to kick ants out of an acorn


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#1 Offline MinigunL5 - Posted May 27 2020 - 7:40 PM

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I recently opened up a random acorn and found a Temnothorax colony. I will get it IDed soon. It has brood and I think the queen is in there to. So I need to feed it protein. The thing is I don't have any. So I have to catch some. I know some bugs are more likely to have pesticides so if anyone has any suggestions, they would help a lot. Btw I have a lot of lady bugs in my house, so would they work?

 

The colony is also in 2 split halves of an acorn. I connected them to a water test tube and put light on them so they would move their brood but they didn't budge. SO in the end I just move their acorns to the water test tube where they then had some honey. Does anyone have any tips on how I can move them out of there? 

 

All replies are appreciated! :D

 

The image is from right after I caught them.

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#2 Offline OhNoNotAgain - Posted May 27 2020 - 7:56 PM

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Wow that is pretty cool. For protein I'd just go to a pet shop and get some mealworms, but that's just me....


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#3 Offline Ferox_Formicae - Posted May 27 2020 - 8:07 PM

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First off, don't use ladybugs, as their hemolymph contains toxins that may harm your ants. Instead, try using bits of crickets or other, common insects such as roaches or beetle larvae, preferably captive breed as they will not contain any pesticides or toxins. A good rule of thumb is that if the insect has bright, flashy colors, it is likely toxic and can therefore harm or even kill your ants. Secondly, the way I tend to extract an ant colony from any sort of nut is to very carefully tap the contents of the nut into a tray or container (I prefer using a large, wide container as opposed to a tall one as it's far easier to work with) coated with a barrier, baby powder should work fine and I never have any issues with using it short term, and with a soaked cotton ball for hydration of the ants, though Temnothorax may not need this as they are very hardy when it comes to humidity, and actually prefer drier settings. After the contents are emptied, you can then begin to carefully deconstruct the nut with hard forceps or a pocket knife. I cannot stress enough how careful you just be during this process, as one slip up could mean the death of many workers, brood items, or even the queen/s. When any extra ants are uncovered, gently tap them into the container and be sure to get any and all brood items, which may need extra coaxing with a paintbrush or some featherweight forceps as brood, especially eggs and larvae, have the tendency to stick to just about anything, either by means of small, grippy hairs or a sticky coating. Once all ants and brood have been emptied into the container, the nut pieces can be discarded and the ants moved into a proper formicarium. Oh and by the way, I'm pretty sure your ants are Temnothorax ambiguus.


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#4 Offline MinigunL5 - Posted May 27 2020 - 8:11 PM

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First off, don't use ladybugs, as their hemolymph contains toxins that may harm your ants. Instead, try using bits of crickets or other, common insects such as roaches or beetle larvae, preferably captive breed as they will not contain any pesticides or toxins. A good rule of thumb is that if the insect has bright, flashy colors, it is likely toxic and can therefore harm or even kill your ants. Secondly, the way I tend to extract an ant colony from any sort of nut is to very carefully tap the contents of the nut into a tray or container (I prefer using a large, wide container as opposed to a tall one as it's far easier to work with) coated with a barrier, baby powder should work fine and I never have any issues with using it short term, and with a soaked cotton ball for hydration of the ants, though Temnothorax may not need this as they are very hardy when it comes to humidity, and actually prefer drier settings. After the contents are emptied, you can then begin to carefully deconstruct the nut with hard forceps or a pocket knife. I cannot stress enough how careful you just be during this process, as one slip up could mean the death of many workers, brood items, or even the queen/s. When any extra ants are uncovered, gently tap them into the container and be sure to get any and all brood items, which may need extra coaxing with a paintbrush or some featherweight forceps as brood, especially eggs and larvae, have the tendency to stick to just about anything, either by means of small, grippy hairs or a sticky coating. Once all ants and brood have been emptied into the container, the nut pieces can be discarded and the ants moved into a proper formicarium. Oh and by the way, I'm pretty sure your ants are Temnothorax ambiguus.

Wow you know a lot about this stuff!
Thx! :D

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#5 Offline MinigunL5 - Posted May 27 2020 - 8:27 PM

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First off, don't use ladybugs, as their hemolymph contains toxins that may harm your ants. Instead, try using bits of crickets or other, common insects such as roaches or beetle larvae, preferably captive breed as they will not contain any pesticides or toxins. A good rule of thumb is that if the insect has bright, flashy colors, it is likely toxic and can therefore harm or even kill your ants. Secondly, the way I tend to extract an ant colony from any sort of nut is to very carefully tap the contents of the nut into a tray or container (I prefer using a large, wide container as opposed to a tall one as it's far easier to work with) coated with a barrier, baby powder should work fine and I never have any issues with using it short term, and with a soaked cotton ball for hydration of the ants, though Temnothorax may not need this as they are very hardy when it comes to humidity, and actually prefer drier settings. After the contents are emptied, you can then begin to carefully deconstruct the nut with hard forceps or a pocket knife. I cannot stress enough how careful you just be during this process, as one slip up could mean the death of many workers, brood items, or even the queen/s. When any extra ants are uncovered, gently tap them into the container and be sure to get any and all brood items, which may need extra coaxing with a paintbrush or some featherweight forceps as brood, especially eggs and larvae, have the tendency to stick to just about anything, either by means of small, grippy hairs or a sticky coating. Once all ants and brood have been emptied into the container, the nut pieces can be discarded and the ants moved into a proper formicarium. Oh and by the way, I'm pretty sure your ants are Temnothorax ambiguus.

How long could they go without protein? Also, where could I get feeder bugs quick(and affordable)?

Also I don't have fluon or that baby powder stuff so do you have a recipe or something?

Thx for the help! ;)

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#6 Offline Ferox_Formicae - Posted May 27 2020 - 9:19 PM

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First off, don't use ladybugs, as their hemolymph contains toxins that may harm your ants. Instead, try using bits of crickets or other, common insects such as roaches or beetle larvae, preferably captive breed as they will not contain any pesticides or toxins. A good rule of thumb is that if the insect has bright, flashy colors, it is likely toxic and can therefore harm or even kill your ants. Secondly, the way I tend to extract an ant colony from any sort of nut is to very carefully tap the contents of the nut into a tray or container (I prefer using a large, wide container as opposed to a tall one as it's far easier to work with) coated with a barrier, baby powder should work fine and I never have any issues with using it short term, and with a soaked cotton ball for hydration of the ants, though Temnothorax may not need this as they are very hardy when it comes to humidity, and actually prefer drier settings. After the contents are emptied, you can then begin to carefully deconstruct the nut with hard forceps or a pocket knife. I cannot stress enough how careful you just be during this process, as one slip up could mean the death of many workers, brood items, or even the queen/s. When any extra ants are uncovered, gently tap them into the container and be sure to get any and all brood items, which may need extra coaxing with a paintbrush or some featherweight forceps as brood, especially eggs and larvae, have the tendency to stick to just about anything, either by means of small, grippy hairs or a sticky coating. Once all ants and brood have been emptied into the container, the nut pieces can be discarded and the ants moved into a proper formicarium. Oh and by the way, I'm pretty sure your ants are Temnothorax ambiguus.

How long could they go without protein? Also, where could I get feeder bugs quick(and affordable)?

Also I don't have fluon or that baby powder stuff so do you have a recipe or something?

Thx for the help! ;)

Sent from my Phone 2 using Tapatalk

 

They can typically go quite a while without feeding. As previously mentioned, Temnothorax are some of the hardiest ants in my opinion, and I've had past colonies I've forgotten about for about a month go on just fine without any feeding, just a colony in a test tube. Anyways, I typically get my feeders just at the pet store for fairly cheap. Watching this video if you want to know what feeders to go for: https://www.youtube....h?v=t7nH3EzY9T4 I currently have dubia roaches, which work pretty well. I would also recommend fruit flies for Temnothorax, as they are known to be quite fierce predators and could certainly tackle a few fruit flies. I've given them live termites without any problems too. As for a barrier, I don't really have a recipe, though it you don't have fluon or baby powder, I hear olive oil works well. Also apparently vaseline, though I don't like to use it, especially for use on smaller ants, as they can usually just climb right over it. So yeah, try virgin olive oil. If that doesn't work, which it should, baby powder is very cheap and you can buy it at just about any grocery store.


Currently Keeping:

 

Camponotus chromaiodes, Camponotus nearcticus, Stigmatomma pallipesStrumigenys brevisetosaStrumigenys clypeataStrumigenys louisianaeStrumigenys membraniferaStrumigenys reflexaStrumigenys rostrata

 

All Strumigenys Journal

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#7 Offline MinigunL5 - Posted May 28 2020 - 3:25 AM

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First off, don't use ladybugs, as their hemolymph contains toxins that may harm your ants. Instead, try using bits of crickets or other, common insects such as roaches or beetle larvae, preferably captive breed as they will not contain any pesticides or toxins. A good rule of thumb is that if the insect has bright, flashy colors, it is likely toxic and can therefore harm or even kill your ants. Secondly, the way I tend to extract an ant colony from any sort of nut is to very carefully tap the contents of the nut into a tray or container (I prefer using a large, wide container as opposed to a tall one as it's far easier to work with) coated with a barrier, baby powder should work fine and I never have any issues with using it short term, and with a soaked cotton ball for hydration of the ants, though Temnothorax may not need this as they are very hardy when it comes to humidity, and actually prefer drier settings. After the contents are emptied, you can then begin to carefully deconstruct the nut with hard forceps or a pocket knife. I cannot stress enough how careful you just be during this process, as one slip up could mean the death of many workers, brood items, or even the queen/s. When any extra ants are uncovered, gently tap them into the container and be sure to get any and all brood items, which may need extra coaxing with a paintbrush or some featherweight forceps as brood, especially eggs and larvae, have the tendency to stick to just about anything, either by means of small, grippy hairs or a sticky coating. Once all ants and brood have been emptied into the container, the nut pieces can be discarded and the ants moved into a proper formicarium. Oh and by the way, I'm pretty sure your ants are Temnothorax ambiguus.

How long could they go without protein? Also, where could I get feeder bugs quick(and affordable)?

Also I don't have fluon or that baby powder stuff so do you have a recipe or something?

Thx for the help! ;)

Sent from my Phone 2 using Tapatalk

 

They can typically go quite a while without feeding. As previously mentioned, Temnothorax are some of the hardiest ants in my opinion, and I've had past colonies I've forgotten about for about a month go on just fine without any feeding, just a colony in a test tube. Anyways, I typically get my feeders just at the pet store for fairly cheap. Watching this video if you want to know what feeders to go for: https://www.youtube....h?v=t7nH3EzY9T4 I currently have dubia roaches, which work pretty well. I would also recommend fruit flies for Temnothorax, as they are known to be quite fierce predators and could certainly tackle a few fruit flies. I've given them live termites without any problems too. As for a barrier, I don't really have a recipe, though it you don't have fluon or baby powder, I hear olive oil works well. Also apparently vaseline, though I don't like to use it, especially for use on smaller ants, as they can usually just climb right over it. So yeah, try virgin olive oil. If that doesn't work, which it should, baby powder is very cheap and you can buy it at just about any grocery store.

 

How do I apply the baby powder?



#8 Offline ANTdrew - Posted May 28 2020 - 3:33 AM

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Take time to read this carefully. It will answer most of your questions:

https://www.formicul...rs/#entry144130
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"The ants are a people not strong, yet they prepare their meat in the summer." Prov. 30:25
Keep ordinary ants in extraordinary ways.




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