2 replies to this topic

[AntPhycho]

This is an old tutorial that I discovered years back when I first wanted to start beekeeping. I decided to share it here for any new/aspiring bee keepers. This tutorial includes how to build everything in a basic Langstroth hive except for the hive's cover and frames (which I will leave links for).

 

 

Tools:

 

•Hammer (and finishing nails)

•Sand Paper

•Dremel

•Wood Glue

•Wood Rasp

•Hand Saw

•Yard Stick

 

Materials: 

 

•Wood must be 3/4" thick.

•10-Frame Bee Hive Lid (https://bit.ly/2XSdHDn)

•20- Deep Super Frames (https://bit.ly/2VvAbwt)

 

Step 1: Building the Supers

 

A deep super consists of 4 boards. The two side boards measuring 19 7/8" . The two end boards measuring 16 1/4". All boards should be 9 5/8" in height.

Nail these boards together to complete the box. Repeat 2x.

(TIP: When nailing boards together use a cinder block edge to keep a 90 degree angle)

 

 

Step 2: Cut Notches at the Tops of Each Box

 

On the two side boards of each box you will need to cut a notch so the frames can sit evenly and boxes/lids can lie level.

To do this, measure 3/8" in from the top outside edge of the board and make a mark. Measure 5/8" down from the top inside edge and make a mark. 

Cut out a notch using these lines as reference. (For cleanest cuts, I recommend using a dremel with a small cutting wheel attachment).

 

 

Step 3: Beehive Base

 

Cut a piece of 3/4" thick plywood to 21 5/8" in length and 15 1/2" in width. Side rails (also 3/4" thick) will be 22" in length, make two of these. The rear rail (3/4" thick)  will be 15 1/2" in length. Once you have cut all of your wood, nail together all of your rails. Measure 1 inch down from each rail and make a line. Hammer in finish nails along this line so you can rest your plywood bottom in the middle. Secure the bottom with wood glue or more nails. 

 

 

Step 4: Frames

 

Each box can hold 10 frames. Slide in the frames you bought as shown in the picture.

 

https://imgur.com/IhlvQd5

 

Step 5 (Optional): Paint

 

Painting your beehive is optional. If do decide to do it I recommend a bright color, preferably white, to protect the hive from over heating.

 

Once you set on the top cover you bought you will be finished.

Happy Beekeeping!

Edited by AntPhycho, April 28 2019 - 9:20 PM.

[Nylanderiavividula]

Really cool!  We build all of our own equipment except frames and foundation (we order those unassembled in bulk).  I highly recommend a table saw in this box-building process.  If you get a table saw with a regular blade and buy a dado blade, you can make all your cuts/rips, and you can use the dado blade to make your frame rests.  It's what I've found easiest!  But I build a lot of boxes on a regular basis.

 

Edit:  Also...deeps should not be used as honey supers.  I'm 34 years old and in pretty decent shape.  I move a lot of heavy things on a regular basis...but a deep used as a honey super can weigh ~100lbs when full of honey.  I prefer medium supers for my apiaries, but even those weigh around sixty pounds when filled with honey.  When it comes time to rob honey (which for me here in central Georgia is right now) it's usually hot, the smoker is going, you're in full gear (or will be by the end of it), and the bees are rather pissed off because the spring nectar flow is at its end and the summer dearth is beginning...and they know it.  In all the chaos, it is very easy to forget proper lifting technique and if you're fooling around with a 100lb deep super of honey, it is very easy to hurt yourself or drop something, etc.

 

Edit #2!:  Deeps are perfectly fine to serve as broodboxes!  Used in this fashion, they don't get as heavy (brood comb is far lighter than honey comb), and queens seem to prefer the larger frames for laying! 

Edited by Nylanderiavividula, May 23 2019 - 7:13 AM.

[AntPhycho]

Really cool!  We build all of our own equipment except frames and foundation (we order those unassembled in bulk).  I highly recommend a table saw in this box-building process.  If you get a table saw with a regular blade and buy a dado blade, you can make all your cuts/rips, and you can use the dado blade to make your frame rests.  It's what I've found easiest!  But I build a lot of boxes on a regular basis.

 

Edit:  Also...deeps should not be used as honey supers.  I'm 34 years old and in pretty decent shape.  I move a lot of heavy things on a regular basis...but a deep used as a honey super can weigh ~100lbs when full of honey.  I prefer medium supers for my apiaries, but even those weigh around sixty pounds when filled with honey.  When it comes time to rob honey (which for me here in central Georgia is right now) it's usually hot, the smoker is going, you're in full gear (or will be by the end of it), and the bees are rather pissed off because the spring nectar flow is at its end and the summer dearth is beginning...and they know it.  In all the chaos, it is very easy to forget proper lifting technique and if you're fooling around with a 100lb deep super of honey, it is very easy to hurt yourself or drop something, etc.

 

Edit #2!:  Deeps are perfectly fine to serve as broodboxes!  Used in this fashion, they don't get as heavy (brood comb is far lighter than honey comb), and queens seem to prefer the larger frames for laying! 

 

Yes you are very correct... Full deep honey supers weigh A LOT! I use deep honey supers as they are convenient when you have very productive hives. Although multiple mediums weigh less, you have more to carry multiple 60 pound boxes which takes a little more time. It does usually take two people to lift a full 70-100 pound box of honey which is why they may not be preferred among the solo beekeepers. If you are a new beekeeper following this tutorial deep supers are perfectly fine to use as honey supers so please do not feel deterred and continue your build!