19 replies to this topic

[Derek451]

Hi guys, I'm back with another question.

 

I just received my zoo med 15 watt reptile heating cable, and it heats up quite a bit (wrapping it around a thermometer got me 85 F, about 10 F above ambient).

 

Things it's attached to heat up pretty quick, so I'm wondering how I would be able to keep it from damage my table and things I may tape it to.

 

Also, are there any hazards to these nonadjustable heating cables? should I unplug them while I'm away to reduce a chance of electrical fires or anything?

 

Thx for advice.

Edited by Derek451, March 25 2019 - 7:20 PM.

[drtrmiller]

They're such a low wattage and are so well insulated in silicone that there is virtually no electrical or fire risk to using an undamaged heating cable.

[ANTdrew]

The cable won't damage anything. Just make sure it isn't anywhere near the water in a test tube or nest, or you will have bad condensation problems and possible flooding. Just heat a small part of the nest and let the ants choose where to go.

[Joehostile85]

Just be careful with a heating cable/mat. I hate those things so much For me they are never worth the risk. I will never use one on a test tube ever again and I doubt I will ever attach one directly to a nest.

2 examples of how unpredictable they are. First I tried this on a camponotus species with about 50 workers in a test tube. I placed it over the test tube and I noticed a couple hours later that the ants had moved all their larvae to where the heating cable was. So I was like good they like it. So I then placed the heating cable so it was resting along the entire length of the test tube. Next day all ants and brood are just sitting exposed in the middle of their outworld. Thank goodness they had an outworld to escape into or they would all be dead.

Then I had another camponotus queen different species also in a test tube. I knew from my last heating cable fiasco that I better give this queen an escape route before I try and heat up her test tube. So I attached another test tube to the existing one using a piece of plastic tubing. I then placed the heating cable over the test tube that the queen was not in. A couple hours later I checked and the queen had moved into the heated test tube. Great I thought, I’ll just keep both test tubes attached and the queen can regulate her own temperature by moving between the test tubes if she wants to so there is no risk. Checked the next day and the queen was curled up in the heated test tube dead. Too dumb to even leave the test tube that was going to kill her.

Edited by Joehostile85, March 26 2019 - 6:47 AM.

[TennesseeAnts]

The fact that the cable was running the entire length of the nest is why the ants moved out. NEVER let the cable run the ENTIRE length. Only the opening.

[Zeiss]

Just be careful with a heating cable/mat. I hate those things so much For me they are never worth the risk. I will never use one on a test tube ever again and I doubt I will ever attach one directly to a nest.

2 examples of how unpredictable they are. First I tried this on a camponotus species with about 50 workers in a test tube. I placed it over the test tube and I noticed a couple hours later that the ants had moved all their larvae to where the heating cable was. So I was like good they like it. So I then placed the heating cable so it was resting along the entire length of the test tube. Next day all ants and brood are just sitting exposed in the middle of their outworld. Thank goodness they had an outworld to escape into or they would all be dead.

Then I had another camponotus queen different species also in a test tube. I knew from my last heating cable fiasco that I better give this queen an escape route before I try and heat up her test tube. So I attached another test tube to the existing one using a piece of plastic tubing. I then placed the heating cable over the test tube that the queen was not in. A couple hours later I checked and the queen had moved into the heated test tube. Great I thought, I’ll just keep both test tubes attached and the queen can regulate her own temperature by moving between the test tubes if she wants to so there is no risk. Checked the next day and the queen was curled up in the heated test tube dead. Too dumb to even leave the test tube that was going to kill her.

I agree with ant_dude, you made the mistake of not letting a temperature gradient exist in the nest.  While ants can be dumb and not move, I think your mistake is putting the cable directly on the tubes.  Typically that produces too much heat compared to what they would actually feel.  In my opinion, if you want to heat your ants up, it's better to just have the ambient air be warmer, but not too warm.

[TennesseeAnts]

Yeah my snake has a heat mat on my dresser, and there is a drawer under it so it stays a constant 80 degrees, while the outside is 72. But if you insist on using a cable, put a towel on top of it so it is insulated. That way the ants will be safer.

Edited by Ant_Dude2908, March 26 2019 - 10:52 AM.

[anttics]

Put a towel on top of the tube. Also put a thermostat next to the tube. If its too hot. Add an extra towel. Make sure the cable, and thermostat. As far away from the water reservoir. I would add sand just in case water condenses inside the tube.
You cook your queen. Some queens will not move from their tube.

[Joehostile85]

Good advice guys, if I ever use the cable again I’ll put a towel as a buffer. Still just seems like an Unnecessary risk with little reward. Like the reward is instead of waiting 2 months say for an egg to turn into an ant you wait 6 weeks. And the risk is you kill the whole colony.

[TennesseeAnts]

There is virtually no risk, if done properly.

[Serafine]

Heat gradient is the keyword here. You are NOT meant to heat the ENTIRE nest only a side of it. Different brood stages prefer different temperatures, pupae like it warmer than larvae.

[TennesseeAnts]

Same thing goes for reptiles too. I bet it says that on the box.

[Wa.Va]

I notice a fast production of brood when heated. Also most exotic species prefer warm areas. So sometimes it is necessary. The key is having a gradient of heath. U will see they arrange brood, because of the optimal temperature

[Derek451]

Okay so I've been using it almost non-stop since this topic, and the ants seem to love it. However, a lot of condensation against the top acrylic has formed, and it's gotten to the point where I almost can't see them lol. Any advice on how to stop the condensation? should I let the nest go dry? How would they get enough humidity without forming droplets?

Edited by Derek451, April 3 2019 - 6:21 PM.

[Derek451]

The cable won't damage anything. Just make sure it isn't anywhere near the water in a test tube or nest, or you will have bad condensation problems and possible flooding. Just heat a small part of the nest and let the ants choose where to go.

 

Big oopsy, that's the problem. The problem is the water chamber is right in the center of a already somewhat tiny nest. What can I do about this?

[anttics]

Make sure ni heat is near the water. The farther away from the water the less condensation.

[Derek451]

The problem is the water reservoir in my nest is in the very center, and the farthest I can put the heating cable is about an inch from it, all sides

[CoolColJ]

I place my heat cable 1 inch from the water cotton. Works for all my setups

[Derek451]

1 inch away from sponge reservoirs too? I'm not able to do that without causing condensation...

[CoolColJ]

1 inch away from sponge reservoirs too? I'm not able to do that without causing condensation...

It eventually dries out after a few days if that is the case. Temp differences.

Best not to heat a freshly made test tube

Edited by CoolColJ, April 4 2019 - 3:47 PM.