11 replies to this topic

[Nylanderiavividula]

So, here’s what’s going on. I have a small wild-caught colony of Brachymyrmex patagonicus with around thirty workers, a queen, and brood of varying stages (a good bit...say, ~70 future ants-in-development [AIDs, if you will]). I collected them out of an old deadout beehive (I am a beekeeper) and put them in a small two ounce honey jar with a cork lid for transport. Well, I drilled a hole in the cork lid (I didn’t want to dump them to get them to move out) and ran clear tubing from it to a test-tube setup (it also had a cork stopper). I covered the test tube to make it dark and rested a light over the small two ounce muth jar and they were absolutely positive that they did NOT want to go into the test tube setup. So I ended up making a small outworld and tubed the muth jar to it and also tubed the watering test tube to the outworld. And they have remained in the muth jar this entire week and won’t move into the test tube. Should I be worried? I don’t see how they can possibly maintain enough humidity in that jar (albeit, very small jar) to properly raise all that developing brood? Also, they do not seem interested in anything at all that I’ve placed in their outworl for food?! Honey-water carefully streaked onto wax paper, rinsed tuna, sodden dog food kibble, rinsed wet catfood, prekilled termites... what in the heck do Brachymyrmex patagonicus ants relish?! So that’s it for subject number one. Now to number two: Aphaenogaster sp. I also managed to nab a small colony of Aphaenogaster: queen, around 25 workers, probably twenty eggs or better, and a lone larva(e?). They graciously moved into a darkened test tube setup as a temporary nest and I made a temporary outworld for them, too. They have been great to watch and have eaten a beetle larva that I found in a rotted log and cut up to give them. They have also, amusingly, covered any bit of honey water droplets with sand (I understand that they do not have a social crop and do this to “sponge” up fluids). Now, that was yesterday (Sunday). How often should I feed these? They drug the beetle pieces into their test-tube nest to feast on. Should I wait until they remove that exoskeleton out of the nest before giving them anymore insects? How much will they need to be fed per week with 25 workers, one big larva, and twenty or so eggs? Should I moisten their outworld? How about with the Brachymyrmex colony? Should I moisten either outworld? Ok, so now to number three. I ALSO (I’ve been busy) managed to catch a Camponotus novaeboracensis queen and two of her overwintering workers in a rotten oak branch. I have them in a darkened test-tube setup with no outworld right now. They have been in the dark since Saturday and kept at ~72F. I plan to give them a peek tomorrow. My question here is this: because I am bringing them out of diapause and the queen was a last-year’s mating, should I make an effort to feed them tomorrow when I look in to see how they are doing? And if so, what? Honey water? Insects? Both? Ok! That’s it...all my dirty ant-laundry hanging out on the line for the whole formiculture universe to see! This forum has been very responsive and accurate since I’ve joined. I want to thank y’all in advance for any help regarding these various issues. Learning more about ants has been and continues to be a thrill!

[PwnerPie]

1) Trust in the ants, as long as they have access to a good home (test tube set up) they will move if needed. Honey water and bug parts are fine. If they don't eat them, they are not hungry. Just keep feeding them.
2) How much to feed varies by colony. Generally start at once a week. But if they devoured all of it quickly, feed them more often. As far as removal, don't go into their test tube to get it unless it starts molding. How moist their out world is I up to you, doesn't matter really. I like to moisten a part of it just so they can have more fun digging.
3) If in question, feed them. I am a firm supporter of giving ants an overabundance of resources. I'd hate to think me preventing them from getting food is hurting them. Just keep an eye on the mold, and clean as needed. Honey doesn't mold so I am a huge fan of honey

[Ants4fun]

Ants actually don't need to eat as much as some think. The effects of overfeeding ants are worse than underfeeding.

The leading cause of ant colony death is lack of hydration. Make sure your ants have a test tube of water available to them, even if they don't move into it. That way, they have the option to drink if need be. Cover the test tube with eith foil so it is darker. Ants can be stubborn, but be patient. Feed small amounts, and if they aren't interested then take the food out and try again in a couple days.

Another way to encourage the ants to move is to add ventilation. Make sure the test tube is covered, and add light and ventilation to the undesired nest location.

[Rstheant]

. Honey doesn't mold so I am a huge fan of honey

Honey can ferment @ PwnerPie. It is equally dangerous. I sometimes use raw hummingbird nectar. It doesn’t mold or ferment due to natural preservatives.

Edited by Rstheant, February 19 2019 - 12:21 PM.

[Nylanderiavividula]

I’m not terribly worried about raw honey. If honey is taken from the hives when properly ripened (moisture content below 18%) it will not ferment. Fermenting “honey” has either been tampered with or has been pulled from hives too early and still has a higher water content than it should. As a beek, I have a lot of honey most of the time. . Thanks for the replies! I think I need more patience. What is the optimum temperature for the majority of ants? Is over 80F too high?

[Ants4fun]

I’m not terribly worried about raw honey. If honey is taken from the hives when properly ripened (moisture content below 18%) it will not ferment. Fermenting “honey” has either been tampered with or has been pulled from hives too early and still has a higher water content than it should. As a beek, I have a lot of honey most of the time. . Thanks for the replies! I think I need more patience. What is the optimum temperature for the majority of ants? Is over 80F too high?

Give your ants a temperature gradient, so that they can choose which temperature they prefer. Ants will chose to nest some brood in higher temps (pupae and larvae) to speed up development occasionally, and other brood (eggs) in cooler areas. By using a heating pad/cable, the ants can choose which part of the formicariums to nest at. Mid 80's as a hot spot is pretty good.

[PwnerPie]

I keep my ant room at ~ 70, then have a heat cable. Some ants huddle over the cable, some stay away but bring brood closer. Agreed with the poster above, giving them options is critical, I have started giving my ants "clean" dirt so they can block/hold in the heat and humidity more effectively...and its fun to watch them mess around with the dirt. Gl with your ants! When I get a bigger yard I hope to keep bees as well!

[Nylanderiavividula]

Bees are a different ball game, but you'll like them I suspect.  New beekeepers are always crushed with their first losses.  If you can keep bees/stay in beekeeping past three years, things start to turn around because you will be learning everything you need to know about keeping them in your specific area.  Expect some losses and start with at least three hives.  It can be expensive to get into, too.  If you buy three full hive kits, smoker, suit, gloves, etc. etc. (when you start processing honey it's a whole new round of equipment), and bees (I recommend package bees for beginners), then you can expect to push a little over $1,000.  The ants are nice because I can keep them inside and I love any excuse to go nosing around through the woods.  How long does it take for colonies to need upgrading to larger formicaria?  It's hard to offer much of a temperature gradient to minuscule colonies (though I am trying).

[Ants4fun]

As long as it takes them to physically outgrow the old one. If there are so many ants that the formicarium won't fit anymore, that would be a good time to move them. If you move them too early, sometimes the new space will be too spacious. Ants will collect garbage and keep it inside the nest. They will feel uncomfortable in a large space. Ants prefer to feel cramped.

Bees are a different ball game, but you'll like them I suspect.  New beekeepers are always crushed with their first losses.  If you can keep bees/stay in beekeeping past three years, things start to turn around because you will be learning everything you need to know about keeping them in your specific area.  Expect some losses and start with at least three hives.  It can be expensive to get into, too.  If you buy three full hive kits, smoker, suit, gloves, etc. etc. (when you start processing honey it's a whole new round of equipment), and bees (I recommend package bees for beginners), then you can expect to push a little over $1,000.  The ants are nice because I can keep them inside and I love any excuse to go nosing around through the woods.  How long does it take for colonies to need upgrading to larger formicaria?  It's hard to offer much of a temperature gradient to minuscule colonies (though I am trying).

[Nylanderiavividula]

“Thigmatic” is a term that comes to mind on the love of feeling cramped. Roaches, bedbugs, and many other insect species are like that. So I will just have to wait on the ants! Another question: I keep hearing that if temperatures get too high on a test tube setup that it will cause the water to run past the cotton and flood the ants. What temperature is that? Also, what temperature is dangerously hot for ants? So far so good. I think I have a temperature gradient of 74F on the low side and 79F on the high side using a 60w black light. I have a 15w heating cable ordered. Hopefully it will be here within a week or so and I can do away with the black light. I am still very surprised to find such an active forum!

[Shifty189]

Hello and welcome! you have already found some really great advice here, this forum is full of really smart people. 2 bits of advice I'll give you is this. first, don't I moisten their outworld. a general rule of thumb is to keep the nest moist and the outworld dry. its supposed to discourage them from trying to move out of the nest. and second, domestic ants can handle what wild ants can. I keep my ants outside and only provide heat when it gets strangely cold (62 in strangely cold in south Florida). 

 

Ants have been around long before us and will probably outlive us. simply give them the tools they need and they will handle the rest.  that goes for nests, food, water, or whatever. an example would be to give them access to a larger nest and allow them to find and move on their own terms.

[PwnerPie]

How long to grow out of he test tube setup? Depends on the side of ant honestly. Carpenter ants are much bigger so they need space sooner. But from what I have seen, 1 full "season" after the first egg is laid (so if you catch them half way through a season, need to wait until half way through the second) generally gets them above th 50 worker mark to pull them from a test tube. Tho with smaller ants, may not move them until they have hundreds. Ants do like to be semi cramped. One way you can move them early is to put quite a bit of dirt in the formicarium so they dig out more as they need more room, and it allows them to be as cramped or as open as they want to be. Also allows for better control on their side of temperature and such. If you watch the recent ants Canada video on his carpenters ants, it gives a good idea of how to approach it.

Ah, and yes. Can't wait to go queen hunting this year! Just one more month till they start in Washington!